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MY RED LONG GLOVES

Posted on January 13, 2015 by Clara G

Put the blame on Gilda, on her red hair, on those long black satin gloves driving all the attention to her perfect shoulders. Her self-confidence wearing that iconic strapless black dress, the way she sings, the way she dances, sure about her beauty, one glove is on the floor, her movements are deliberately powerful, the dress moves dangerously, somehow is promising to fall down, the camera plays with this effect. Jean Luis created a perfect outfit to build a perfect scene alive and modern since 1946. My gloves are long but not black, they are red. Not satin but wool. Not very tight, they are confortable and warm, they have no label, neither handling instructions, they are beautiful and anonymous.

Gilda smiles, plays, but she is a little sad, she seems to be drunk. There is a little bit of pain. It’s  easy to see the smile of the good girl turned into a femme fatal. Did Rita Hayworth wanted to create Gilda like this or is Rita the one that smiles behind Gilda? You are supposed to be true while dancing, and Rita was a professional dancer. Gilda wearing long gloves has been always on my mind, and of course I have always had a pair of long gloves, always… put the blame on me, I’ll show no repentance, I’ll suffer with pride, finally… I am not Gilda!

MY RAQUEL ALLEGRA T-SHIRT

Posted on November 24, 2014 by Clara G

Precious and fragile things need special handling. Hand crafted, made one by one with a laborious shredding technic, precious and fragile. How could I resist this t-shirt? I found a way to wear it reversed (originally the net was thought to be in the front), with that simple decision it has became one of favorite tops. Oversized, a little gothic, with this dramatic effect on the back, it works in summer and winter, day and night. There was something special on it since the beginning. What captured my attention was that vintage effect, the cotton’s touch, the black turning into gray color, the strange proportion. Thin like paper that floats over the body. Working on this post, I found out that the designer Rachel Allegra started using old t-shirts reclaimed from Los Angeles County Prison System and this t-shirt I own belongs to that collections. I am  quite shocked about that. Things get damage, things get broken… and sometimes, only sometimes, they get much better!

MY UNDERCOVER JACKET

Posted on September 30, 2014 by Clara G

The first time ever I saw this jacket it was many years ago. It was maybe during a weekend in 2009, in an outlet store in Berlin.  A little bit big for me, very expensive and very difficult to wear so I decided not to buy it… but I never really forget it. A few years later, in 2011, I came back to Berlin, in that moment I was planning to move here, and I saw it again. Still in the same hanger, in the same place:  seemed to be waiting for me, it was still too difficult, still too big, still to expensive for me but this time I bought it, with a romantic feeling of belonging. I thought “I belong to this city and you belong to me”.

It is a military green jacket designed in 2005, damaged and broken.  Seems like some one hand cut it with a knife, dirty, like burned or been buried, white lace that could be seen underneath. Eyes and teeth are sewed to its cuffs and front, like a monster with a delicate soul. It has something to do with my disturbing relationship with decadency, loss, death, and also with my own misaligned teeth, that I recognize as part of my personality but also make me feel so insecure. But most of all, the jacket it is definitely connected with Edgar Allan Poe and the teeth of Berenice.

MY SAINT LAURENT OXFORD SHOES

Posted on September 16, 2014 by Clara G

What is the aim of an unexpected cover, revealing or unrevealing the object underneath?

A fully covered platinum and diamonds skull, is it something else than a skull?
A Venetian palace covered with an oriental carpet, floors and walls, is it still a Venetian palace?  A pair of fine leather shoes covered with studs, is something else than a pair of shoes?  When you remove part of the name of a former brand, are you really becoming something different?

I’ve been thinking about it, and I don’t now… a skull inside of a diamond cover must have belonged to a man and I wonder, isn’t it the real man, what is remaining from that man? Is it a piece of art only because Damien Hirst decided so?. That skull, that I have printed in one T-Shirt has a deep meaning for me. Something regarding life, death and memory, something ironic, dark, also beautiful and disturbing, I love and hate that skull. I appreciate it’s enormous influence in fashion, but don’t know if I would ever be able to live with the real piece, in case I could afford it… I had this same feeling of being haunted when visiting the Rudolf Stingel installation in Venice a couple of years ago. Mixing the beautiful palace, the heavy carpet, the medieval pieces painted on detail: saints and skeletons. Something of all that it’s  also on my new Saint Laurent shoes. I find a rare connection between all those experiences, something that goes deeper. A kind of ambivalence that goes straight to my own bones, like poison, like love.

MY MATTHEW WILLIAMSON SWIMSUIT

Posted on August 21, 2014 by Clara G

Going to the beach is like a little nightmare for me. The sun is not my closest friend, water is not my element, I find sunbathing dramatically boring and I do not really like any kind of swimsuit. If I cannot avoid it, my first option for a beach day, it used to be for years, is to wear the simplest black bikini you could imagine, usually by Calvin Klein, big hut, tons of sunblock and a strong desire to disappear melted with the sand.

But around five years ago I saw the Matthew Williamson beachwear collection for H&M, gloriously worn by Daria Werbowy. I love all this capsule collections produced by H&M and thought by the best designers, that have to fight with price restrictions and think for a different costumer faraway from the catwalk. I always wonder if they would do something new, like Comme des Garcons, something similar to the real collection like Stella McCartney, Marni or Lanvin, a kind of retrospective like Versace, Margiela or Isabel Marant, or a real wardrobe for a real woman like Lagerfeld or Viktor & Rolf?

This time, from the advertising campaign, the British designer and the Polish model were seriously tempting me with a perfect suitcase for a luxurious Caribbean holiday, with some Pucci prints and a little of Donatella´s approach: garments were beautiful with bright and flattering colors, but also deliberately excessive. I found the mix stimulating and funny, most of all funny. I thought, well, this time the collection is not for me, but I could not help it and I went there to see it and of course I bought some staff thinking more in my collection of clothing than in wearing them… but at home in front of the mirror I discovered the power of pink, glitter and prints and for the very first time I felt dressed wearing a swimsuit!

Sometimes when you don´t feel secure… is it better to overact a little bit? My Matthew Williamson trikini turns every head, but I am much more anonymous than wearing my boring black bikinis, because it takes the leading role.

MY JIL SANDER BLUE BAG

Posted on July 7, 2014 by Clara G

Blue is much more than just another color for me. In my mind, blue is lapis lazuli and the ancient Egypt with Queen Nefertiti wearing her tall blue crown. Her bust is made of limestone but seems to breath when she is looking at me through 3.300 years and the protection screen, with her damaged left eye. The beauty that came from the mountains, my first icon, is here in Berlin, close to me.

Blue is also the Babylonian Ishtar Gate. It is forbidden to touch its blue glazed bricks. I wish I could not only touch the Gate but get through it and go back in time (2.580 years) and space (from Berlin, where the Gate is right now to the south of Baghdad where Babylon was built), appearing in the Processional Way, the Gate on my back, the Tour of Babel in my front, walking through the streets, would I feel as lost in translation as the Bible says or maybe is there were I really belong… to that place now destroyed after the last Iraq war.

Blue is also Yves Klein, the first contemporary artist to touch my soul and change my perception with his ultramarine monochrome paintings. Blue is the small crown that his wife Rotraut wore in her head when they got married in 1962. The beautiful Rotraut is German, of course.

And blue and German is my new bag from the most German of the designers, Jil Sander. It’s so essential and minimal, nearly unknown, although the label she created is global. I am glad that this time she has stayed as creative director enough time to create this bag before leaving again, for the third time, in a very smooth way as she always does.

Maybe I unconsciously moved here to Germany to be closer to this marvellous colour, the blue.

MY MIYAKE PINK DRESS

Posted on June 25, 2014 by Clara G

To move, run, jump … dance: to dance! Pleats Please clothes are made for movement, can only be understood in movement. Issey Miyake developed the idea while designing costumes for a Dance Company in the early 90s and, as a result of his technical and conceptual investigation, he created a new line of very functional, organic, timeless and resistant clothes. He called it Pleats Please, like a beg and also a play on words.

Pleats Please garments are always the same but different at the same time. Removing any economical, social, sexual or even fashion connotation,  Miyake gave a new option, a new uniform and made a silent revolution creating them. They are clothes but not only: they are so simple, so powerful. Since they appeared I’ve been collecting Pleats Please clothes because I find them really interesting. Pleats give beauty to the fabric, creating three-dimensional effects, embracing and revealing the body in a delicate way that I love.

By being worn by me, Pleats Please is not action, color and simplicity. All my Pleats Please, like dress in picture above, seem to be more reflective and static, even classic.  I don’t feel disappointed, I like them. They reflect the importance of what I am wearing and, off course, the way I’m.

MY VINTAGE CARTIER PIN

Posted on May 26, 2014 by Clara G

There was a time when costume and jewelry where the most important occupation for a certain kind of women and gentlemen were queuing at Cartier to get the most fabulous diamonds for their beauties well known for the quality and amount of their jewels and aristocratic lovers. La Bella Otero, Cléo de Mérode, Mata Hari: all those women, who represented the vanity and decadency of their times, were although the first to step out of the Victorian morality system where they had no other chance to be free.

A few years later, one of that out of the system women, started to dress women to be real helping with that to change the whole feminine role, her name was Coco Chanel and not for coincidence she was the first to mix jewelry and bijoux. When she did so la “Belle Époque” was definitely gone, but for some years the Art Déco style kept the magic alive, creating beautiful objects like this pin designed by Cartier in 1924.

I always wonder about the first owner of this Cartier pin: who was she? Was she a flapper like Coco dreaming to change the world? What happened to her when all was drown again in war and pain? Would she approve the way I wear it? And, more than everything, would she like me?

MY BALENCIAGA WOOL JACKET

Posted on May 13, 2014 by Clara G

There are very few pictures of Marilyn where she looks real, a real woman. But some months before her dead in August, 1962, she began to be more natural, to reveal herself a little bit beyond her fabulous hairdressing, all the make up and even the clothes. Don’t know if it was a sign of maturity and self-acceptance, or simply because of publicity reasons, knowing her as I do, I don’t think it was casual. That last Marilyn, with her fading beauty, her white hair a little damaged, very thin, wearing Pucci dresses and Ferragamo stilettos, is the one I adore.

It was June, 1962, at the sunset, It was cold on Santa Monica beach, Marilyn was 36, she was wearing a wool jacket with an orange bikini underneath, her hair was a mess, her make up too, she was tired after a long photo shooting, drinking too much champagne. Empty eyes, childish laughing, spots in her nose. It was January, 2009, at night, it was cold in Madrid. I was 35, my kid was a little baby, my husband gave me a present: a big Balenciaga white box, inside there was a wool jacket.

There is no apparently connection between the architectural clothes designed by Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga that year and the wool jacket bought 47 years before in Sacks, but whenever I wear it, and I do it very often, it reminds me that iconic photo shot: for me Marilyn is always there, wearing that jacket that I know she loved. She was just laughing and dreaming at the sea side.

MY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN TOP

Posted on April 30, 2014 by Clara G

The dress is sustaining the body: the body is not totally alive. The girl has suffered: suffering has made her beautiful and strong. She is not human anymore: she is a fantastic creature. Romanticism, lust, poetry, determination, power, a deep desperation, feelings of intense life, but as all the colors together bring black, too intense feelings drive to dead.A certain arrogant attitude, a feeling of superiority and an unexpected sense of humor… he was like all the genius are. I always perceived he was involved in a sophisticated personal revenge, dressing women to make them immortal, unreachable beyond violence and pain. For too many reasons I feel connected with Alexander McQueen, since he started in Givenchy I was overloaded, hypnotized, inspired for months with every collection. He touched my heart with his magic and cold fingers, his brilliant imagination. I own two of his pieces, both are exactly as I thought: you don’t really wear them, they wear you.

This top in the picture is full of references: it is like a corset, but also like having two deep scars, and most of all,  it shows the drawing of the bones underneath. It is totally fixed to the body, in a perfect balance: one centimeter less and the laces will hurt, one centimeter more and the effect wont be possible. Pain, dead, sacrifice for beauty but when you wear it you feel powerful, intense, special.

And today, I see the sporty smiling princess wearing all those conservative dresses and summer coats, most of them made by Alexander McQueen. They are perfectly done, they are even beautiful and looks great: but I feel sad. When your name gives name to a brand, it should end if you end. And die with you.

MY ADIDAS ORIGINALS X FARM T-SHIRT

Posted on April 16, 2014 by Clara G

Everybody is so healthy, happy, young, hipster, relaxed and cool in this blond, pale, tall, gentle neighborhood where I live. And all this is true, you can feel it clearly as passing by, but something is behind, if you scratch a little bit you will soon find the other side, the painful one. That difficult balance between past and present, that anger for tomorrow, like the Golden Angel standing on cannons: to much weigh on the base to fly free, but for that very reason that flight would be more beautiful. All that contrast, is what made me fall deeply in love with this city, so broken, so damaged, so strong and alive at the same time.
Every single corner of Berlin has its own scar, even Wannsee, a beautiful Visconti-like beach in the middle of a forest aside a lake… right there, on that romantic place, the Final Solution was decided by the Nazi Regime. But this is something that goes further and affects not only to places.
I had no time to unpack the luggage after arriving from Brazil, when Adidas launched a collaboration with Farm, a label from Río de Janeiro. As the Adidas original store is very close to my house, I was one of the first to see the collection while they where mounting the shop front. Since I moved to Berlin I use a lot of stuffs from Adidas. It’s nice, optimistic, well done, casual and confortable, just what I need: the connection between the so German label and Brazil this season seemed very funny to me and of course I bought several pieces from the collection. Continue Reading →

MY BRAND NEW VIVIENNE WEESTWOOD FOR MELISSA BOOTS

Posted on March 25, 2014 by Clara G

When I was a teenager  I could not wait to wear high heels. One day I found a way: low platform beach sandals, a pair of dark brown classic sandals that are still in my closet.
Beautiful and cool but I didn’t know how to use them out of the swimming pool and the beach. I asked for permission but my mother refused. They were totally made of plastic, so they were supposed to be uncomfortable, even unhealthy and difficult to walk in but for years and years I thought it was like that: plastic  shoes must be only used for water.
Until last week, exactly last week. I was in Brazil, in Sâo Paulo walking through the streets of that enormous, giddy, fascinating  city when I saw a strange shop  with mannequins directly placed on the street. Outfits displayed were so amazing that I decided to enter inside there where, surprise surprise, no clothes, just shoes, plastic shoes!! I saw beautiful pieces and I discovered that they were designed by Karl Lagerfeld, Gareth Pugh or Vivienne Weestwood! I was fascinated, I have never herd about MELISSA, although they seem to be an icon and not only in Brazil. It was easy to choose the golden boots you see pictured above: they are irreverent, funny and most important, since they are made of high quality PVC,  comfortable and perfectly usable. And there is also something important you can not see…they smell like candies!

 

MY MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA DRAPED T-SHIRT

Posted on October 22, 2012 by Clara G

Maybe I was born wearing Maison Martin Margiela, and this is why I feel such a strong identification with this non-designer fashion house. I can not remember which was my first piece but roughly the 40% of the labels in my closet are attached with four white stitches (the Margiela discrete trademark), I am sure that everything I have ever bought it is still in my closet, perfectly wearable, even the garments from the Hermes collections designed by Martin Margiela on the late 90’s. I have some impossible shoes and dresses but also very simple and easy pieces like this grey-blue t-shirt bought here in Berlin last Spring, both casual and fashionable, perfect with leggings and oxford shoes, but also with formal pants and high healed sandals. It has been my favourite basic this summer, this is what I love from Margiela, it is minimal but not boring, it is well done but it is not preppy, it is special but not obvious. Continue Reading →

MY PRADA PRESCRIPTION GLASSES

Posted on October 8, 2012 by Clara G

LOLITA has been one of the most influential books of my life: love as an obsession, as illness, but beautiful in the end, even in its darkest side.

To have myopia is one of the most strange situations. I don’t use glasses in my daily life, I do it as an exercise, this is the way I am. I am not able to see properly, my eyes are not perfect anymore. Somehow myopia protects me when I get tired of reality and when reality hurts, but sometimes I feel weak, insecure. It is also a barrier for the others, I don’t recognize faces easily and people think at first that I am arrogant. I like glasses as an object, I really need them, but I don’t use them. I know it sounds strange when I say it, but I am not sure that I want to see properly like before. Continue Reading →

MY PRADA FLAME WEDGE SANDALS

Posted on October 1, 2012 by Clara G

When I bought this sandals last summer, someone told me “I think I will like them in a couple of years…”  and this is the exact point with Miuccia. She is always working right on the edge, maybe too early for us. She is opening paths. Since the very beginning it has been always like that…and my friend is very clever, he really is.
I discovered this sandals in a picture on a March Issue of  Harpers Bazaar Magazine. They surprised me in a deep way, they seemed extravagant but also desirable with some pop art taste. I can imagine Roy Lichtenstein’s women wearing them, and I love Lichtenstein.
The first idea in my mind was “fire in the asphalt”, to play with fire, to be on fire… how could I resist it? No way, I had to buy them. Continue Reading →

MY VLADIMIR KARALEEV LEATHER TOP

Posted on September 13, 2012 by Clara G

In Berlin-Mitte, where I live, there is a fashion shop that is completely empty. The door is open during usual working hours and the shop is huge, with an amazing storefront in a busy street but, it is empty. The only sign of life is a beautiful big vase with fresh flowers on the floor. If you have enough courage to enter the shop (although you will think it is under construction or more likely just abandoned) and you walk through the white space, you will find a spiral staircase. If you go downstairs, finally, in the basement, you will find the clothes in a dark area without natural light and a big projection in the main wall showing the upper floor, totally white and empty. 100% Berlin, here nothing seems to be what it really is. The big adventure is to find it and enter this shop, called Apartment, an iconic place in the City, it’s worth a visit. Continue Reading →

MY TOM FORD FOR YSL TOP

Posted on August 31, 2012 by Clara G

I can remember the impact of  Yves Saint Laurent fall/winter 2003 collection. It was a real shock, a clear breaking point in the history of such an iconic Fashion House. It was a real war announcement between Tom Ford and Yves Saitn Laurent. Somehow the revolutionary an shy Yves became a grey designer, quite correct, but no more, very little else to say for someone that had said almost everything in fashion. And then the irruption of the king of porn chic: the marketing expert arriving in Paris with all those impossible collections and models nearly nude in transparent-minimum dresses. Too much for the genius of Saint Laurent who started to hate Ford and began a personal war against the new designer of “his” Maison. Clearly, after some time, Yves had never been losing a battle, not even this one.

Continue Reading →

MY CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN SANDALS

Posted on July 9, 2012 by Clara G

Red is the colour of blood, passion and emergency. If you  know me a little bit, you would easily say that it should be my favourite colour, but I don’t use it normally. It doesn’t fit me at all. I have tried hard  but it doesn’t work with me. Not even the classical lipstick suits me, maybe it is because of my super pale skin, or maybe because of my blonde hair. But there is one exception, fortunately you can always find one, which are the red soles. They always fit and  everybody  loves them and I’m not an exception. My Louboutin sandals, high heeled, with platform and pattern leather, they have everything to be recognized as a fashion fetish element. They can also be elegant but they always will have this cancán touch, the footprint of the femme fatal. When you stand up in them, it is not that you are able to see the world in another way, it’s the world that looks at you in a different way. Continue Reading →

MY JIL SANDER VEILED BEANIE

Posted on July 2, 2012 by Clara G

It is one of my last acquisitions. Raf Simons is one of my favourite designers ever and I thought it could be interesting to own a Jil Sander piece, not from his last collection, but from the one that was on the street when I knew he was appointed at Dior. While I’m waiting nervously for his first Haute Couture Show, scheduled for today, I want to show you my new veiled beanie. It was designed in collaboration with English milliner Stephen Jones for the spring summer 2012 collection and it is quite dramatic: it has something to do with an old school spy and also recalls widowhood . Continue Reading →

MY VERSACE DIAMOND SKIRT

Posted on June 28, 2012 by Clara G

Gianni Versace is not my favourite designer: too baroque, too obvious. He was a star, that’s for sure. He simply represents the euphoria of the 80’s, an optimistic and savage moment we are all sometimes missing. I can’t avoid remembering Princess Diana during his funeral in July 1997.  So tall, so blond, with her pearl necklace. You could easily see that she was special… another star, neither my favourite, soon to be disappeared. Two years later I found a skirt in a small fashion outlet in Madrid, the silk fabric was painted with diamonds. It fitted me very good, looked like made for me. It was a Versace piece, from the 1998 Fall Collection, the second one designed by Donatella, but it looked quite like the last Gianni. Shiny but a little dark. Continue Reading →

LV+COMME, MY BAG

Posted on June 18, 2012 by Clara G

In my heart there will always be a place for a short jacket with big bell-shaped sleeves that I saw in a fashion magazine in the late eighties. I was just a kid haunted by fashion, the designer of the jacket was COMMES DES GARÇONS,  the anti-fashion label inside the fashion world. It was the first time I had seen a piece by COMMES DES CARÇONS. However, I cannot remember at all the first time I heard about LOUIS VOUITTON, the establishment of Fashion. On September 2008, COMMES DES CARÇONS opened a LOUIS VOUITTON pup-up store inside the COMMES DES CARÇONS’ shop in Tokyo, with six bags in very limited edition designed by RAY KAWAKUBO for the 30th anniversary of LOUIS VOUITTON in Japan. Continue Reading →

MY VERY FIRST LBD

Posted on June 4, 2012 by Clara G

April 2003, I had an invitation for a dinner in the house of the Norwegian Ambassador in Spain. I remember I was really confused and nervous: what are you supposed to wear for an occasion like that? It is certainly not an everyday kind of  event. How to stay elegant and true to myself?  After a week thinking and dreaming, I came to the  conclusion I needed a Little Black Dress. Something classy, timeless like the LBT is never a mistake. In that moment Calvin Klein was still the right place to find it. It was still the real Calvin, it was very short before the company was sold to a found somewhere in the world and the loss of another icon in the world of fashion. In my head I had a very clear image: another American icon, Carolyn Bessette, arriving to a party in a perfect LBD. Beautiful, simply perfect. Needles to say  the dress I chose it was a black, silk dress built to last . It was my first must have piece, my first step into maturity. Continue Reading →

MY PANTHERE BRACELET

Posted on May 29, 2012 by Clara G

I was travelling back to Madrid from London one year ago, reading a magazine and suddenly… I saw it ! It was my favorite bracelet, the one I use to wear everyday. It was “him”  but it was on Elizabeth Taylor’s arm. I felt really surprised and of course very proud. I don’t have jewels, just a few pieces and for me it is some kind of an honor to think that Liz once wore this same bracelet. My husband bought it for me a few years ago in Berlin, it is a vintage Cartier Panther  made of gold and steel from the 80’s. I always have dreamed to have a Cartier Panther and I wanted it to be a little old fashioned. Continue Reading →