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THE LIGHTHOUSE, ODEEH

Posted on July 16, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

If  fashion is boring you, go to Germany. There you can find a whole bunch of new designers that can satisfy your fantasies. In the last 10 years this country has turned from the place where Birkenstock were produced into a lighthouse of ideas where fashion is done, produced and delighted. Among local names,  Odeeh is quite representative and for sure one our favorites. A project founded by Otto Drögsler and Jörg Ehrlich, Odeeh reminds us of a great period of Italian fashion in the mid nineties. The very first Marnis and  Pradas, those clothes imagined for a different kind of woman and to break some rules. The two Milan based houses were producing their best pieces in that happy period when there wasn’t even the idea of  being fused or sold to a bigger group nor  the pressure of opening 12 shops per year in some remote corners of the world. They were small, small like Odeeh is now. Small and enthusiast with a  great styling, a reasonable production, best fabrics and best workshops and a business department that was not yet aggressive. A fashion romanticism you will now find on a german brand called Odeeh.

Discover Pre-Fall 2013 at Odeeh’s website.

HONESTLY IN FASHION

Posted on July 4, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

The more I get older, the more I understand fashion is just an art mirror. The more I visit museums and exhibitions, the more I see fashion interns taking photos to be brainstormed and used by creatives of any genre. I like when they  get inspired by art, I feel sick when they copy it entirely. With Gaga taken to the court by French artist Orlane ( and her stylist Formichetti finally unmasked as a non original) I’d like to think fashion is going through a more honest period. Not that Gaga was fashionable in any way, but her stylist was treated like a fashion god…and the truth is, he just invented hot water as we say here in Italy. Balenciaga was a fashion god, he was taking inspiration from Velazques off course, but the result was never plagiarism. Au contrair, his clothes were considered, and still are, avant garde.  What is the point of replicating if you cannot make it better? Being commercial is vital but taking something conceptual or abstract and turn it into an object to be sold in million of pieces, that is really sad. Take the picture I post above. It was taken by Eugene Von Bruenchenhein, an American guy born in Wisconsin in 1910. He lived his life doing the most different kind of jobs but at the same time he was making “things”. Photos of his wife Marie as a pin-up, thousands, colorful apocalyptic landscape paintings, sculptures made from chicken bones, ceramic and cast cement. Von Bruenchenhein was a natural artist, he didn’t know he was one  and lived his life as a normal person untill a curator, or art lover, found his impressive body of work and decided it was deserving some attention. And some time passed and Massimilano Gioni included him into “Il Palazzo Enciclopedico” (Biennale di Venezia). But as I was standing there in front of his pictures, I noticed the same old  fashion intern taking pictures non stop. He wasn’t even reading why those pictures were there, nor was trying to feel them. He was there just to rob. And I prayed, and I begged . Who really want to see this marvelous artist to be outraged for a 9.99  dollars skirt? Not an art lover, for sure.

 

 

FALL IN MARBLE, ACNE FW 13

Posted on June 27, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Here we are. Sales are over, at least online, and all you can find is L and XL sizes. So here is my first “want” for fall winter and it comes from Acne, Swedish fashion brand  founded by Jonny Johansson. Acne is making it very well season by season and you cannot make mistakes with their basic, minimal, pure pieces mixed with some very technical ones made with a certain “northen” mastery.  Take the must have Acne Clark Jacket from fall winter 2013 collection. It’s  an all weather technical jacket in a printed breathable Italian nylon, triple bonded, interior seams finished with contrasting binding. It has four front pockets, velcro tabs at wrists and back, zipper and velcro closure. The fantastic marble print is included and it gives to this piece an unique, non-foliated metamorphic rock, effect. Fall in love with the cold marble feel,  but stay warm in any condition inside.

http://shop.acnestudios.com/

 

SUB TROPICAL CONSIDERATIONS, MUUSA LUXURY LOUNGEWEAR

Posted on June 13, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

As the infamous sub tropical African anticyclone is approaching old Europe and finally summer is arriving, it’s clearly time to think about fall winter. As you know, we like to visually prepare our readers in order to arrive to the next shopping season with an educated eye. So here is our first proposal and we are talking about cashmere. King of wools, warming illustrious, body best friend.  Muusa Luxury Loungewear is an Italian brand specialized in Luxury Spa and Resort apparel straight from Umbria, the Italian region  internationally renowned for its standards of excellence in cashmere craftsmanship. Muusa creates top quality, easy  and comfortable pieces that are soft, warm and made with yarns that reach ethereal lightness thanks to the cutting edge technology involved in the production process. A strong, yet very light yarn that provides the highest levels of purity and fiber control. Muusa collection is also multifunctional and every single garment can be worn in different ways according to mood and occasion. Write it down on the top of your list and remember this name for your next cashmere shop. Muusa is a great great option.

http://www.muusaluxuryloungewear.com/

MADE FOR A RESQUE SQUADRON, PARAJUMPERS

Posted on May 30, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

The occasion was not a happy one and we were all there sitting in a bar , sad and low, waiting for an occasion to talk about something else. One friend was wearing this military jacket full of pockets, padded out in fleece and with lots of grapples. The clothes oriented I’m, the casual wear lover in me couldn’t resit but ask to remove the jacket and give it to me for a functional analysis. That was, with no surprise, very well done, stitched to kill, finished up in marvellous way. I  think I stayed in silence with the jacket for 10 minutes… and I said to myself, I want one. I absolutely liked it. The model in question was” The Flea Market” jacket by Parajumpers which is a new project deriving from the cooperation between Ape and designer Massimo Rossetti. Rossetti is a well experienced outerwear designer  and also an importer of American brands for the Italian market. The idea of Parajumpers appeared after a meeting with a serving member of the 210th Rescue Squadron in an ill-famed bar in Anchorage, Alaska. Men of that squadron are highly trained for extreme rescues and recoveries in the wildest, most remote and hostile corners of the Globe. Whether it be ships adrift at sea, rock-climbers stuck atop a 4,000-meter peak, or submariners sunk at unimaginable depths, these men are called to intervene. All that functionality, all that strength and perfection, are now in a  very interesting brand I warmly suggest you. I want that jacket madly, what about you?

http://www.parajumpers.it/en/

 

LUCKY MAN, GANESH

Posted on May 29, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

There is no need to say that anything bringing fortune in our lives is very well accepted. A talisman, a mascot, a propitiatory gesture: the say fortune, as long as positiveness, is never enough and I do believe they are right. If you wish good luck, it’s not only kind of you,  you are also wishing good luck to yourself . It’s called the what you give is what you get philosophy and if you want to wear something with a good karma, Ganesh is there for you. Created by Nicola Bargi and inspired by the name of the most loved Hindu God, the strictly made in Italy brand is a colored, rich in details, easy and always a stylish choice. Preppy and traveled, in love with India and its colors, Ganesh spring summer 2013 collection is a spiritual invitation to be discovered online.

 

NO COCKOO, THU THU

Posted on May 7, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Thu Thu is a new label from Berlin that I find quite interesting.  To tell you the truth, there are a lot of new designers from Germany that I’m really interested in. It may be the power or accuracy they lately put in their collections, it may be the no cuckoo factor. Just  put the Berlin fashion week on your map and you will see some new designers are  really deserving the trip. Like designer Thuy Duong Nguyen, founder of Thu Thu. She was born in Vietnam before moving to Germany at an early age and she has been influenced by the two very different strong cultures. Her clothes are therefore a trait d’union between the Western style and the charm of the Far East. Nguyen actually designs pieces destined to a young crowd of global gypsies and new generation of globetrotters.  Ingredients? Handcrafted Vietnamese embroideries,  traditional rural textiles mixed with a contemporary touch/cut. The result? Irresistible and fresh collections that are going to influence the new urban aesthetic and some echoes of distant places, and older times, that are rarely seen on mainstream catwalks. The best of German design shake hands with Vietnam’s craftsmanship.

http://www.thu-thu.com

THE REBULIC OF ONE PIECE, DIANA

Posted on May 2, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

From my very modest point of view, a woman is sexyier when wearing a one-piece bathing suit. My girlfriends says I’m crazy off course. They say it  covers too much and it creates no tan zones – but who is getting tanned these days after all? They say is not sexy and men doesn’t like it. I don’t agree. I think the one piece creates mistery, slim down silhouette, creates a game of bondage on shoulders that is , depending on the audience, an invitation to marriage. If the one-piece bathing suit  in question is also sporty, then perfection is around the corner. I know women love bikinis, I know they don’t want to look like their mothers in an old picture but give it a try, and remember it’s just a matter of breaking some rules. If all you can find in store is Brazilian swimming lines, it doesn’t mean you have to buy one. Go to the sportswear department and search for the model in the picture which is called “Europa 2”. It comes from an historical Italian brand called Diana. Born in 1947, Diana is dressing swim and water polo teams all over the world and has a whole collection of monochromes one pieces that is simply the best you can buy. This summer, try the two becomes one philosophy.

http://www.dianasport.com/

 

 

SUN WHATEVER, SOSOFT SUNGLASSES

Posted on April 26, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Don’t know why people is going into the pool with sunglasses but the phenomenon is improving summer after summer. If it is an hotel pool then, a nice hotel, everybody is swimming in shades. It’s alluring, creates mystery, makes you look like if there is a paparazzo outside there how’s violating you privacy. To avoid complications, swim and play with no danger (eventually fight with the paparazzo at no risks), Technochic has created SoSoft Sunglasses. Light, colored, SoSoft is a perfect accessory to protect from the rays of sun with appeal and coolness. Lenses are certified anti-UV and scratch-proof and made of  polycarbonate with an hard coated treatment on both sides. Crossbars are instead realized in a particular material that had a soft and flexible nature : it’s called EVA, expanded high-density, and it allows glasses to float and to bend completely until almost to curl up. It looks like a fun pair of sunglasses but it’s not. Imagine a softer approach and no weight on your nose. Imagine all you can do with SoSoft.

EBTG AND THAT PERFECT STYLISH PICTURE

Posted on April 24, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

On my long journey they have been a significant presence. During my unstable youth and my moody cycles, with perpetual tides, they have been there. Life is a very surprising thing in terms of musical tastes. Today you like this, tomorrow you like that. Never say never. So I have been listening all, but them, they have been there for those special days, very close to my inner side. The pop (?) electronic duo Everything But The Girl, founded in 1982 in Hull England, have been experimenting all genres and have been inspired by country music, electronic, jazz. The band was not so cool in the eighties (was I the only fan?) but with the 90ies and a totally different approach they managed to reach masses. I remember  one night dancing  in my black vinyl non perspiring trousers. At one point “Missing” remixed by Todd Terry – was playing. Don’t get me wrong, it was a super alternative house club on the map with velvet rope and everything, it was a niche place (where niche stays for underground). So “Missing” was playing for the very first time and people was literally pulling out hair one to each other (here it means getting crazy). Lovely nice moment, everybody happy. One song,  how can I forget it?  The commercialization of Etbg was happening. Nothing wrong with that, the duo managed to reach a level of perfection during those years few band can be proud of.  Their Cd covers started to be arty and stylish, their image was neat and sub urban-minimal before anyone. Treacy, once an ugly duckling, started to put red lipstick and wearing young avant-garde designers while Ben was all in vintage shirts and sneakers. Always simple and unique, the Everythings had maybe done the “CD Cover” of the 90ies. Shooted by Marcelo Krasilcic in 1995 during a New York night Out  for the album “Walking Wounded”, the picture (above) is a memorable example of modernity and eternal cool. With its greys and reds predominating and in contrast, the cocktail dress and the sport jacket and high tones,  the “Walking Wounded” cover is still an example on how simplicity, realism and sincerity are best ingredients in creating an image. 17 years, still beautiful. Timeless.

 

BE BAD AND BADACIOUS

Posted on April 18, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Fancy some huge- immense earrings? I’ve seen them around, a lot. Women are literally wearing Christmas trees, ash trays, Calder’s mobiles and filigree chandeliers. Maybe too much off course, but if this is the trend, well, I prefer Badacious. The style is oriented to the ghetto girl, the inspiration is Neneh Cherry: the perfect match is a denim jacket and lycra shorts. The ethnicity is uncertain, the multicultural aspect is pure fun. Kozue Badacious and Ayumi Badacious  are jewelry designers based in  New York but originally from Nagoya Japan. The magic? Mixing Japanese Old School and American Contemporary culture with wit and humor. Rock, hip hop and fashion icons as inspirations. The young duo, that is already owning an ever growing fan base and some notable clients is, for sure, the ultimate jewellery trend and spicy brand of summer 2013.  For courageous girls under 35 only  and to buy at PatField New York.

http://www.badacious.com/

FIRE ISLAND PINES. POLAROIDS 1975-1983

Posted on April 4, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

My generation grew up knowing that the party was just ended.  HIV was marking forever the life of many. The community was losing most of its illustrious master of ceremonies and people were sad, doing anything but feeling free as before . All that ” vida loca”, all that dancing, all that fast loving suddenly ended in  a tragedy largely covered by press and novels. The book “ Fire Island Pines. Polaroids 1975-1983”  by Tom Bianchi  goes back to the point whit a positive attitude: its a selection of snaps from the good happy days that were before panic. The history begins with Tom Bianchi buying a magazine in which is portrayed body builder Glenn Bishop,at the time, a famous gay icon. That photo was shooted in Fire Island, an exotic heaven to the eyes of young Tom. After  graduating Bianchi finds job at Paramount in New York and the very first summery weekend he took the Ferry.  He has nothing in mind but reaching the “paradise” where Bishop was hanging out and that place soon became second home. A place “out” of the country, an independent area, a free sex Republic where the community was living a happy parallel life. The following year Bianchi goes to a convention and receives a free Polaroid SX-70. The smart machine, at that time totally advant garde, becomes soon ones of his obsessions. He starts shooting  his secret paradise, his friends, parties, the beach. Everything. At one point, he is using so much film that he become the second largest consumer in the United States preceded only by IBM.

Continue Reading →

TWINS ALIKE BUT DIFFERENT. THE BLUE, THE BLACK, THE 3.1

Posted on March 28, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Blue is the color of the sky, ocean, sleep, twilight. The ancient Egyptians used it to represent heaven. Blue also has religious meaning since it’s the color of the veil of  the Virgin Mary. Inspiration, sincerity and spirituality, blue is often the chosen color by conservative people and it’s famous for being a calming color. Black instead is the color of night, mystery, unknown. In color psychology the meaning of the color black is protection from external emotional stress. It is famous for being used by people who want to hide or want to create a  barrier between itself and the outside world. I’m not a conservative nor someone that get easily calmed down by a color, but I always like the combination of blue and black. Originally a bad taste sign, they were too similar too be paired, the two colors together were banned from every possible matching combination until Miuccia Prada decided, in mid 90ies, that they were not only a spectacular combination but also the new minimalist sign, the perfect hybrid.  Since Mrs. Prada broke that rule, designers have played largely with “the duo” but it’s Phillip Lim 3.1 with its 2013 Spring Summer collection that won my personal award and trust. His fresh and graceful way of balancing sport and formal get an historical benefit with the use of these two beloved colors. Have a look at the entire collection or stop by and touch it to discover the poetry of the two masters. Duality, differences, similarity: discover the moment when the two twins were separated and suddenly re united.

http://www.31philliplim.com/

Above, milkshake of Phillip Lim 3.1 SS 2013

THE BACKPACK THEORY

Posted on March 21, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Today it’s Spring, the right time for changes has come. Those little seasonal adjustments that need to be done in order to bring some positiveness around our lives can be done. Today we can decide to inaugurate the new season in a bizarre way. Women? Oh they are magicians, they can change the color of their hair or nails but what about men? They could start, for example, with a change of accessories. Since men are great consumer of them lately, they should try to stop buying  woman purses (for instance). Too much “bears” out there with a Birkin Bag hanging on their wrist or elbow. Too many leather bags toted around. Ok, men are normally going in high heels nowadays  but I believe that it’s time to go back to the old “spot” backpack. That marvelous porter that disappears behind shoulders: capacious, discreet, functional, it divides weights on shoulders, avoid metamorphosis in the gait, in the walk and prevent scoliosis too. On the top of  it women’s purses have never been sexy on a man. It’s time to let go those handles and let ourselves embrace the backpack theory. Usually made in light materials, hyper technological, waterproof, incidental run ready, the BP is like a bra, an engineered work of art. At Muji, for example, you can find a selection of the lightest designs with that jap touch and smart price. At  Invicta you can buy a classical “paninaro”  model to color break your looks in total nostalgia. At  EastPack you can go for classical models that have been there since decades. And, if your budget is higher, you can choose the “fuzz” of the fantastic “hard core” printed backpack by Givenchy  (photo above) that comes straight from the contorted mind of Riccardo Tisci. And remember, a BP will keep you grounded, no matter the one you choose. Use no wrists nor elbows, it’s on our shoulders that the weight of life should be carried.

 

THE PICK AT THE NEW BEAT CORNER, PRPS GOODS & CO.

Posted on March 12, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

You know when you go shopping in big department stores, there is someone tending to  “new beat” zones while there is someone who says, if you want my money, you have to be known. Of course I’m a new beat kind of person. I adore new comers, and I like to experiment, I like to take the risks and I adore the never ending research of  big department store’s buyers. They are genius. They sometimes order things that have never been featured in any fashion magazine nor fashion blog risking quite a lot in these difficult times. Anyway, the new beat corner this year was full of surprises and among them I picked up this wonderful cotton t shirt that says “PRPS TOKYO NEW YORK”. I was quite surprised and curios about the association. A country, a city, one here the other there. I bought the t-shirt as a reminder, it fit perfectly btw, with the intent of researching more about the brand and here is the story. PRPS is short for Purpose. Every collection is designed by Donwan Harrell that founded the brand in New York in 2002. Harrell is a passionate about denim-wear and a painstaking researcher of  use and traditions of work-wear, military wear, hunting apparel, navy clothing. The result is jeans and casual garments that are created from top quality African cottons, and finished with expert Japanese construction techniques. The free and easy wear, the culture inside the classics of male’s wardrobe, the nostalgic vision of the American life-style with a Japanese luxury finish. All this is PRPS and yes, it was a very good pick.

http://www.prpsgoods.com/ Continue Reading →

IT.TALENTS @CAPSULESHOW PARIS

Posted on March 1, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

IT.TALENTS is the first platform which aims to promote Italian young designers living and producing in Italy. Curated by Federico Poletti, free lance journalist and independent curator,  the project  will be displayed at CAPSULE SHOW  at Cité de la Mode – Paris from the 1st to 3rd March 2013. If you are in town for the fashion week, don’t forget to pay a visit.  Here is the list of designers (some of them are very good friends of the Harlows) : COMEFORBREAKFAST, FLAVIA LA ROCCA, FRANCESCO BALESTRAZZI , A- LAB MILANO, PAOLO ERRICO, BADURA ROMA, CATERINA GATTA, VIVETTA PONTI, ARTHUR ARBESSER, MELIS YILDIZ DESIGN.

From 1st to 3rd March 2013 CAPSULESHOW

A DREAM IN STRAWBERRY FOIL, COMRADE COUTURE

Posted on February 21, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Some decades ago, there was a wall separating a city in the middle of Europe. Sounds weird and far to new generations but The German Democratic Republic , or simply East Germany, was a state within the Eastern Bloc during the Cold War period. From 1949 to 1990  this small region was occupied by Soviets. Isolated from the rest of Europe that was living the opulence of the 70ies and 80ies, East Germany lived in a “cage” where police was suppressing every popular uprising and where its inhabitants were not permitted to leave their country or travel anywhere in the west bloc. The economy  was centrally planned and state owned, and as a consequence of that, this small country was living a life by itself. And what about fashion? European teenagers where exploding into “La Boum”  buying jeans and sneakers, bleaching their hair and dancing the most pop of the music the world had ever heard while East German teenagers had to deal with a kind of clothing that was functional, practical and uniformly standardizes. But clearly, the wind of fashion doesn’t stop in front of  borders and some East German citizens, inspired by youth movements as Punk and New Wave, started sewing their own clothes creating extravagant outfits that were a form of rebellion, a way to challenge the establishment, Continue Reading →

SNOW IS MELTING, STUDIO PRETZEL SS 2013

Posted on February 14, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Finally the snow is melting and the sun is out, and the prospective of a milder weather is real. Remember I’m writing from the North East of the “Boot” and in the last few days we had “the perfect snow” as meteorologists defined it.  That perfect snow really blocked everything, positiveness included, and instead of thinking about renovating my spring wardrobe I was more into searching for a new Woolrich and buying tights to wear, secretly, under my jeans. As i said today it’s sunny outside and as a cat that stretches out into the very first ray of sun,  I  extend my thought towards renovation again . Studio Pretzel SS 2013 LookBook, designed by our friend Emiliano Laszlo, bumped in our emails just today : what a better way to celebrate the end of winter , hopefully, with this collection? Its light weighted character, its pastel sky palette, its functionality and style is an ode to the good weather- good living. Along with classic signature shirts by StudioPretzel (maniacally made from the cut to the sewing ) you will find the LightDenim blazer and the blue Indigo Kimono pants. The first is a marvelous fresh jacket that stands for the universal use of denim also in hot temperatures, the second is another Pretzel symbol revisited ad improved. Emiliano loves Martial Arts and never looses occasion to purpose such perfect oriental uniforms by adding his all Florentine twist. The result is perfectly visible in these pictures shooted during last June’s Pitti Uomo and interpreted by Tomoteru ‘ToMo’ Saito. Artist, very well known “Madonnaro”, Tomoteru is such a StudioPretzel man: a conscious human being that lives his passions no matter what and which life is an intersection of cultures and experiences. Stretch towards StudioPretzel at La Ferrament Bologna, 40 Gradi Rome, Ruggine Cesenatico and online at WrongWeather.

http://www.studiopretzel.com/

Photo Above : LightDenim Jacket and shorts

LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE, TWOTHIRDS

Posted on February 7, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Depending on the dictionary, like-minded means in accord, compatible, harmonious, having a similar or identical opinion, disposition, etc.etc. It’s for this kind of people that TWOTHIRDS created its clothing line.

“Our planet is covered by two-thirds ocean. Our ocean gave us the gift of life. In turn the inspiring immensity of our ocean gave us our name: TWOTHIRDS. Our ocean makes us who we are and gives us immeasurable joy. We at TWOTHIRDS aim to address like-minded people; those who are awake and aware of the immense value of our oceans, people deeply connected to surfing and those who have a thirst for substance and style.”

TWOTHIRDS was founded in San Sebastian, Europe`s premier surf-city, some time ago just in front of the Ocean.  There you will find their concept store that is situated 50 meters from the Atlantic Ocean in `Calle Aldamar` 38.  At TT they use 10% of their gross profit margin to actively support measures to protect and preserve oceans as well as create awareness and educate . TT is a company that is trying to minimize the impact of any kind of fabric treatment using chlorine free wools, veg tan leather, untreated garments and by limiting the amount of colors in order  to minimize water usage. Continue Reading →

OH CHARLIE!

Posted on January 31, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Ok, too early to talk about swimwear but you perfectly know this is a serious thing and it’s not a last minute shop because you may find less or nothing in June/July. Swimwear requires thinking and trying, so be prepared from now. Steady the Buffs and check out The Charlie swimwear line by Matthew Zink. The Summer 2013 collection is designed and modeled to kill and inspired by the ‘70s happy years: Hawaii, Magnum PI, Irving Penn’s flowers and Leroy Granni’s vintage surf photography of the ‘60s and ‘70s.  Charlie by Matthew Zink is a swim lifestyle brand dedicated to the seduction of the perfect swimwear. A tribute to the decadence of the 1970’s,  to the Guy Borden gals, to the hedonist and glamour years. This summer just be sexy, it’s a much more happier life.

www.charliebymzstore.com

 

THE FEEL GOOD PHILOSPHY OF “SCOTH & SODA”

Posted on January 28, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Amsterdam based brand Scotch & Soda is currently one of my favorite spots when I’m in search for good casual pieces. I had one shirt by S&S for my birthday some time ago and I feel good in it. Since then, I never quite stopped getting enthusiast every time I pass in front of one of their Flagship stores. They are bright, they are smart and their fabrics are the best: wool, cotton, leather, no matter what you touch when you shop at Scotch, you will always find some good vibes. Softness is a must but not only. The color palette is also incredible. How did they obtained that green and that orange, how did they dyed this and that? A lot of questions, a lot of answers from your S&S clothes during the years. On the top of the hill, I feel 10 years younger when I wear one of their shirts. I feel fresher, I feel I’m wearing the right stuff, I fell at the right point, life seems happier. I’m not a teen since 1992 and blessed is the brand that brings me back to that glorious state. Continue Reading →

ORLEY, YOUR SPRING SOURCE

Posted on January 22, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

How long is January? It’s a never ending month, the time doesn’t pass here. Writing form the  north part of Italy where the sun doesn’t comes out since 3 weeks and where the presence of fog, rain, snow is constant. So don’t ask me why I can’t cope with winter 2013-2014 fashion shows. The future is also a deluxe item we cannot afford, the present? Visualizing ourselves in spring clothes that are already popping in stores can be much more productive.  So my present is made also by this lovely American brand called Orley. Lively, simple, joyful and with a terrific line of ties and accessories I would wear. Orley is a knitwear label designed by Matthew Orley, Alex Orley and Samantha Florence that is specialized in mixing craftsmanship and design to create unique, exciting, tempting clothes. Humor and elegant in a casual way, this brand look out onto spring season with a series of simple elements  that are never stolen quotations but re-contextualized references. Indeed a brand to follow, to support… and to buy!

http://orley.us/

 

WE ARE NOT AVANT-GARDE, MAREUNROL’S

Posted on January 16, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

With everyone trying to find out the last hot designer and opening special talents agencies, the world seems a happier place. Tons of newness in the air, tons of new names popping out, but what’s the point if you check this designers out 6 months later and they are disappeared? The good thing is that the new is always knocking at the door, the bad thing is that clients are romantic and they want their relationships (with designer) to last forever. MAREUNROL’S, good very good, is destined to last more than two season for sure. Having a panoramic view to their work in the last 10 years I can perceive a continuity and a strength I rarely seen on new brands. MAREUNROL’S was established in 2002 by the fashion designers Mārīte Mastiņa and Rolands Pēterkops. They are based in Riga, Latvia and winners of the 24th festival of photography and fashion Hyeres 2009. Mārīte and Rolands studied at the Riga Design Art College and Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts. MAREUNROL’S collections are concept based where clothes are often accompanied by specially designed sets, video projections, installations and anything can help in revealing their concept. Their clothes can be considered avant-garde, but in reality it’s wearable fashion, it’s made for the public and made to generate emotions.

 

Continue Reading →

CECIL BEATON FABRICS

Posted on January 9, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

We tend to think about Cecil Beaton for his ethereal, stylishly perfect pictures. We all know he was a bon vivant and an extraordinarily well introduced person. The rich and famous, the glamour, the terrific irony, the epic fashion moments.  Let me call Mr. Beaton an “art machine” because few people I have ideally met had been that fecund. No matter what he was doing: from the sets to the make up and styling, till the flower decorations passing by the creation of special furniture and interior designs, he was delivering beauty, always. That was obtained mainly because Beaton was making it all, and controlling it all. None knows what’s in your mind better than you, how true is that? The sketching? A regular job for Mr.Beaton who  loved spending  time with a pencil in his hand putting down ideas and visions. Drawn in 1948 and commissioned by Zika Ascher for use in his contemporary collection of haute couture textiles, the Cecil Beaton Fabric Collection is just a small part of the genius inside of this big personality. I love the fact that after so many years, that “capsule” is so contemporary and still produced by Beaudesert London. Continue Reading →

WALNUT BY DOUCAL’S

Posted on January 7, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

I think we are sneakers addict. I also think I would love to wear something different next spring without looking like a stiffed man (with a Fedora hat on maybe, oh my gosh that is so 2011!) Yes I’m talking about casual shoes, about relaxed elegance and fresh feet. The Walnut moccasin by Doucal’s seems a perfectly correct option. The inspiration? Native Americans. The material? The softest skin on heart colored in apuana marrone, otter rosso, otter soleil and apuana testa di moro. The structure? It’s one piece of leather folded like the most meticulous of the origami. Doucal’s is an Italian company nestled in Montegranaro- Marche. This region, known around the world as Italy’s heart of production for handcrafted excellence of glamorous footwear, is where the Giannini family originally founded the Doucal’s brand 40 years ago. Italian craftsmanship embracing the modern perspective we can wear without looking like a colonial man/ banker? Walnut, there we go.

http://www.doucals.it/

 

NEW STRIPES, ACNE

Posted on December 20, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

As we approach the end of the world and this may be my last post at The Harlow , give me a break, the Spring Summer clothing is arriving into shops and online shops  dressing windows and giving to this cold landscape some glimpses of positive vibes. The spirit of a new a season, the future again, the project of our lives to be re invented . So the world won’t end tomorrow and Acne is purposing the best stripes you ever imagined. Are you a fan of stripes? I’m one. After some years of classic black and white stripes, beige and black, and black and white, it’s time to change. For Spring Summer 2013 , stripes will be thicker, bolder and separating your body spaces with a new palette. Be ready to archive the old mariner t-shirt and embrace the new stripes. The New Era is coming? Some new stripes are ready.

http://shop.acnestudios.com/

PAS DE CALAIS SPRING SUMMER 2013

Posted on December 11, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

How Harlow  is this? On  a clear day looking over the Channel, the white cliff of Dover come into view. The Famous “Dentelle De Calais” was there:  one of the most beautiful laces in the world. On a clear day, the Pas De Calais concept was born. Inspired by the rich heritage of this region, its way of living, its marvelous and delicate lace. The purity and the nostalgia of that region inspired a brand that is based on modern casual design with a romantic touch. Launched in 1998 Pas De Calais embodies the best of the East and West. With a deep respect for tradition, fine quality and natural beauty, this Tokyo-based women’s wear label combines Japanese technical innovation and French timeless classics creating a balanced elegance that is full of subtle surprises. Proposing realistic ready-to-wear and accessories with impeccable taste and materials, Pas De Calais captures the essence of casual modern design. After opening its first store in Tokyo in 1998, Pas De Calais now has 20 stores in Japan. Stocked throughout the world in the finest boutiques and department stores Pas De Calais will be opening in Spring 2013 its first Flagship store in Soho, New York.  The Pas De Calais Spring Summer 2013 was the  right moment to simplify and go back to nature. Continue Reading →

NAMI SPRING SUMMER 2013

Posted on November 29, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Nami is an old acquaintance. I think it was 1995 when I first met her in New York.  At the time, she was working in an uptown atelier. I didn’t know anything about fashion, but from the airport we went straight to her work place and that was amazing. I still remember there were a large amount of gowns  on the racks . Flamboyant, rich, truly American. They were heaven. I later discovered that it was “just”  Geoffrey  Beene’s  headquarters. Just. Curious how a 22 years old boy arrives in New York and the first place he sees is the atelier of one of the best American Designers.  Fresh from a BFA at the Rhode Island School of design, Nami was starting her career in those years.  Beene, J.Crew, Moschino in Milan and Puma in Germany,  she spent  almost  twelve years around the world  but her home was clearly New York, she was meant to stay there. I remember she was sewing in peace in her own Chelsea Apartment, a lovely place,  and uptown girls were coming and going because they wanted special dresses made from her. She was just different and still, after so many years, she  is. Her style? Clean, minimal, existential.  I remember things she did in the past that were Rick Owens much more before Rick Owens launched his collection. After her European adventure, Nami relocated to Brooklyn and started to produce her small collection made of few, incredible pieces. Continue Reading →

CROSSING THE OCEAN IN STYLE, GIORGIO DI SANT’ANGELO

Posted on November 27, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Oh Italians, they are such adventurous fellows. They may be very boring travelers but for sure, they are flamboyant immigrants.  They may not speak a word of any foreign language but for sure they are ready to risk. When the whatever country seems way much better than your own, what can you lose? Italians always want to live somewhere else, they are never satisfied. I think sometimes they get  to be good designers for this reasons, they are perfectionists always ready to relocate somewhere over Paris or North America. The most fashionable of all Italian immigrants arrived in New York in the 60’ies : he was named  Giorgio di Sant’Angelo, the son of a count from Florence.  Born in 1933, Di Sant’Angelo  was clearly an artist and despite  his degree in Architecture  he also studied industrial design and ceramics and attended a 6 months art course helded by someone called Pablo Picasso.  Under the encouragement of the Cubist co-founder, Di Sant’Angelo  created an animated cartoon and sent it to Walt Disney. Disney flew him to Hollywood to collaborate, but the young Italian guy was not able to speak a word of English and after 15 days in Los Angeles  he relocated to New York City in search for another adventure. As the cartoon field was a failure, Di Sant’Angelo started to work as a textile artist and interior designer making his name jumping from Z to A list in few months. Continue Reading →

THE ANIMAL COLLECTION

Posted on November 23, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

We fell in love immediately with this “Animal Collection”  by LC23: it’s our Harlow side you know. Love, tenderness  and ,off course, animals. Characterized by eight unisex models of sweatshirts all countersigned by applications of hilarious fabric prints (penguins, birds, fishes, dinosaurs, hens, ducklings, wolves, elks and butterflies) this  completely handmade capsule wakes up our feelings of respect for nature and creatures of the world.  LC23, founded in 2010 by Leo Colacicco, started with handmade shirts and continues now  with this pleasant, and very well done, line of sweatshirts. The whole new collection can be seen online and  it’s absolutely  something to add to your Christmas gift list.

http://www.lc23.it

PEB CLOTHING S/S 2013

Posted on November 20, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Welcome to the new season. Every time Christmas is approaching, logically, it’s time for us to turn the page and look further on. Our readers, fashion souled and spirited, wink, are already projected in into the next season so here is the beginning of our journey towards mild weather, sun, sea and nature. In case the world won’t finish on December 21st, you will find the marvelous Spring Summer 2013  Peb Collection waiting for you at LuisaViaRoma or other fancy boutiques all over the world. The Peb Clothing company was created in 2008 with the main objective of designing items that don’t follow trends. Simple forms are created with a certain devotion to details and Peb is proud to design and produce in Italy. This is the first real collection by the PEB guys and it’s an ensamble that will conquer casual , and less casual, men. Continue Reading →

BOUTIQUE OF KNOWLEDGE

Posted on November 15, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Lately I have been  obsessively asking myself about the point of keeping a large amount of magazines and books when technology allows to have everything in a click.  All that precious space I could use for something else, would I throw out everything for some fresh air? We are so used to have an information/picture in seconds that we all run to Google forgetting our “papers” . Why do we rely on Gg so much? Answer, we are just lazy cows.  As I observe all mayor historic  newspapers auctioning their photographic archives, I can’t help but wonder why this people is selling their “privileged” knowledge . I have been researching for some fashion photographs online and there was no trace of them. Important shootings made by masters, I’m not talking about any niche stuff.  And suddenly  the weight, and price, of books was making sense again. The only way to reach a precise information is all there in your exclusive “boutique of knowledge”. Continue Reading →

CARHARTT CAR-LUX HOODED THERMO SWEAT

Posted on November 7, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

The first time I saw this signature piece by Carhartt, I fell in love. There were no places here in Italy to buy this rigid, “strange” hooded sweater. Thank god I flew to New York a month later and the so wanted item was found at “What Comes Around Goes Around”. Apres moi, le boom. It was 1994 when “Work In Progress” initiated a distribution network for Carhartt across Europe, introducing a selection of classic products from the original work wear range into a new market. Success was immediate; the authentic Carhartt products quickly became popular with both fans of traditional US heritage garments and with the nascent European urban culture scene. Carhartt was part of the uniform adopted by Brit Pop, Club Culture and Rave followers. It was more than a brand, it was a way of living. Every young man was wearing something from Carhart. Durable, light and unexpensive, that hooded thermo sweat kept  me the warmest boy even when it was very cold outside. I was maybe dancing in a silk Gucci shirt, but my Cararth jacket was always waiting for me at the loackroom. After so many years in the market the Car-Lux is still one of my favourites items. Enriched in colours and prints, it is something I would copy-buy forever. Forever.

http://www.carhartt-wip.com/

GUCCI CRUISE 2013

Posted on October 30, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

The colder it gets, the summery I browse. As my colleague Teresa once said, fashion is a dream, a great escapade. Many of us won’t leave winter for a single day for at least three months, can you imagine? It’s Better To Travel, as my beloved Swing Out Sister once sang, at least in our minds. Plenty of writers that wrote exotic books about places they have never been. Plenty of fashion offers for a Sunny season somewhere else. Welcome to the game of cruise collections where the sun shines bright and women goes updated to the very last trend. I remember a good friend who used to go around in cheap clothes. She was so charming everyone was asking what she was wearing. She used to reply ” It’s blablah cruise line”. People were amazed. Not for the designer name she made up but because of that cruise in the end. The cruise is the last of everybody’s necessity, the ultimate promised land: cruise means you can, cruise means you are so bored that you can afford to go shopping for 8 seasons a year. Continue Reading →

VOGUING AND THE HOUSE BALLROOM SCENE OF NEW YORK CITY 1989-1992

Posted on October 23, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Paris Dupree was at Footsteps, an after-hour club between 2nd Avenue and 14th Street, the day she gave a name to Voguing. Not that she invented it, a lot of poses come from African and Egyptian hieroglyphics and there are traces of it in American masculine jails and balls of the 20ies, but she sharped it, defined it, glamorized it. She was hanging at Footsteps then with a couple of friends throwing shade at other Queens. Paris had a Vogue Magazine in her purse, and while she was dancing she took it out pointed a page and imitated the pose of a model. Another queen came up from the crowd pointed a page, and did a pose. Paris returned: the battle had started. The Voguing was born. The mechanism that lead to the creation of Houses, balls, competitions was meant to last a decade. Voguing was an interpretation of society based on glamour and on matriarchal kind of family. There was a mother, in some cases a father, and there were children joining along the way. Every house had his name, his statement and signature pose. Continue Reading →

LES NE’RE’IDES

Posted on October 18, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Les Néréides, créatueurs de bijoux haute fantasie, was created in 1980 by Pascale and Enzo Ammadeo with the intent of making “pizzaz” fine costume jewellery. In Greek mythology, the Néréides were sea nymphs daughters of Nereus, the old man of the sea. When there was 50 of them, they had the power to re invent themselves. The name, chosen by Pascale’s grandfather, was never been so suitable to a jewellery line. During the years Néréides has always found its inspiration in travelling and collecting items. Every trip made by Pascale and Enzo, was the discover of a new world with a consequent come back in France with small treasures made of old dolls, night lights, statues, vintage jewellery and of course, paintings. Néréides had been growing up along the years meeting the tastes of a major number of clients. They have created indeed small collection lines (Le Bucoluques, Les Histoires, Les Bourgeoises, Les Citadines, Les Precieuses) that embrace the nature, tales, Italian classics. From noble materials, till easy to wear jewellery to mix with the busy woman’s wardrobe,  every woman is represented. Irony, joye de vivre, this small company is an example of familiar enduring legacy, 360 degrees creativity and witty philosophy.

Discover les Néreides at http://www.lesnereides.com/

THE FIRST 40 YEARS

Posted on October 12, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Apparently getting older has its positive turn ons: you can write a memoir, you can trace your past, finally you have one. W Magazine celebrates its 40th birthday with this book we have already pre-ordered. We cannot miss it. True, W had been pushing too much lately. True we had been on and off with our subscription but  it’s 40 years of groundbreaking fashion stories, no matter if they caused a Steven Klein allergy on most of us. W has also very good qualities like its big size, its like velvet paper,  its pop character that never bores. This book then deserves to be on our shelves. I remember with immense pleasure unwrapping W Magazine and going straight to the last page. Oh The Countess Louise J.Esterhazy and her column called Last Laugh; it were closing with irony all that sex, all that gold, all that artifact world. What a better way to tell your readers, guys, don’t take it seriously? Is The Countess still writing for W? The First 40 Year is a book  divided into three sections—Who, Where, and Wow—supervised-edited by Stefano Tonchi and celebrating in full regalia 40 years of excesses good writing and great photographers. Do we need more from a book?

TIM WALKER, STORY TELLER

Posted on October 8, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Who is the most playful of contemporary fashion photographers? Who is driving you into wonderland every time you surf the pages of a magazine? Who is delivering irony and intelligence without playing with the same old sex and nudity? Who is taking your hands and give you a tour of his contorted mind for free? Who is playing with proportions (I think Alice in Wonderland definitely left a mark on him) so you can feel vertigo? Who did the fabulous Vogue 2012 photo shooting styled by Grace Coddington at the Ritz (before its closure for maintenance) that saw Kate Moss placed like a statue above an immense chimney? Oh, she was so beautiful, so petite, so big at the same time. The nicest Moss’s photo shooting in years… and I never tough someone could make an outstanding work with her any longer. Not after her image is intoxicating us in every corner.But he did. Ladies and Gents, British photographer Tim Walker. Maybe the most visually exciting and influential of fashion photographers working today. Extravagant, grotesque, fabulous and from the 18th October on show at The Somerset House in London. The exhibition will be accompanied by a series of events and there will be the opportunity to see a series of films specially curated by Tim himself. The “Story Teller” won’t let you cold, I’m sure. The last of fashion photographers believing in “grandeur” and splendor needs to be seen. A reason more for jetting to London City this autumn.

http://www.somersethouse.org.uk

GAP + GQ’S BEST MENSWEAR DESIGNERS

Posted on October 3, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

GQ’s six Best Menswear Designers in America for 2012 had been nominated : BLK DNM, Ian Velardi, Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, Ovadia & Sons, Saturdays NYC and Todd Snyder. They are six of the most representative talents of United Stated. As a reward to their passion for menswear,  they have teamed up with GAP  to create a  Limited-Edition Menswear Collection available now at Select Gap Stores and online.
“From the very early stages of the design process, we knew this collection was going to be something our customers were drawn to,” said Mark Breitbard,  “These designers are shaping the future of menswear, and it’s an honor to bring their distinct visions to life in a way that complements Gap’s casual American point of view.”
Johan Lindeberg of BLK DNM celebrates the new uniform of the way-downtown set, where black jeans share sartorial space with tuxedo jackets and leather bombers while  Ian Velardi  fuses active sportswear with classic tailoring techniques.  Mark McNairy New Amsterdam instead,  push classic American sportswear  through new  boundaries and mix it with military, work wear creating a rebellious and playful aplomb. Twin brothers Ariel and Shimon Ovadia, of Ovadia & Sons, update  classic menswear items with unexpected details and pops of color. Saturdays NYC, founded by Morgan Collett, Josh Rosen  and Colin Tunstall, brings surf style to the everyday urban life. Todd Snyder’s designs reside at the intersection of rugged and refined.
The fabulous 6 are ready to cheer t your Autumn with this original project that brings in  shops a high dose of  innovation, positiveness and desire to live.

http://www.gap.eu/

ADRIAN LTD. VINTAGE HATS

Posted on September 27, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Los Angeles based Marilyn Glass, one of the foremost private dealers-collectors of couture and vintage fashion, is currently selling a selection of marvelous hats by Adrian Ltd.  Adrian Adolph Greenberg, born on March 3 1903, was widely known as Adrian, the fabulous dress maker. He was maybe the best  American costume designer ever existed and  worked non stop for Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer from 1930 till 1940. During his career, Adrian designed costumes for over 250 films and his screen credits ,usually read as “Gowns by Adrian” , were  spectacular trademarks of never reached before beauty. The Wizard Of Oz, The Women, Lovely To Look At, Camille, Grand Hotel, Anna Karenina are only few of the films he “dressed” . He not only created a neat style for a  deluxe parallel Hollywood world but also forged the images of many actresses. Just think about Joan Crawford’s outfits and her large shoulder pads. They made her look unique, powerful and later spawned a fashion trend that soon conquered the majority of women. In late 40s, Adrian left MGM and established his own fashion house. From this last period of work comes Marilyn Glass’s hats: some were made to order for big department store, some were custom made for Adrian’s demanding clientele. If you like to collect fashion pieces, these hats are museum ones,  you cannot miss this sale. If you don’t mind the possession, just browse them for fun. The genius of millinery? Adrian had it.

http://marilynglassadrianhats.avl.1stdibs.com

Photo: 1947 Adrian Hat Ad via http://portobellohats.tumblr.com/