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IT.TALENTS @CAPSULESHOW PARIS

Posted on March 1, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

IT.TALENTS is the first platform which aims to promote Italian young designers living and producing in Italy. Curated by Federico Poletti, free lance journalist and independent curator,  the project  will be displayed at CAPSULE SHOW  at Cité de la Mode – Paris from the 1st to 3rd March 2013. If you are in town for the fashion week, don’t forget to pay a visit.  Here is the list of designers (some of them are very good friends of the Harlows) : COMEFORBREAKFAST, FLAVIA LA ROCCA, FRANCESCO BALESTRAZZI , A- LAB MILANO, PAOLO ERRICO, BADURA ROMA, CATERINA GATTA, VIVETTA PONTI, ARTHUR ARBESSER, MELIS YILDIZ DESIGN.

From 1st to 3rd March 2013 CAPSULESHOW

TIMELESS ICON, DIANA SPENCER IN PHOTOS

Posted on February 26, 2013 by admin

It was about time. It was something we wish they have done before: finally a good photographic book that celebrates Lady Diana after all those unauthorized biographies. When words cannot tell you the story in a neutral way, there are only pictures. Tons of Diana Spencer’s images that can tell you far more than entire books. “Timless Icon” by Electa is a book about a globally recognized “shy” style icon before style icons got like “lions” out of a cage. The early Diana caught in unexpected moments as a mother-princess and the  ultimate Diana, a philanthropist jetting the world in style and wearing the best designers, are getting together in this book made of more than 100 photos shooed by paparazzis and other famous photographers. Between all that had been written, the woman, her appeal, her timeless allure, her pictures.

http://www.electaweb.com

A DREAM IN STRAWBERRY FOIL, COMRADE COUTURE

Posted on February 21, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Some decades ago, there was a wall separating a city in the middle of Europe. Sounds weird and far to new generations but The German Democratic Republic , or simply East Germany, was a state within the Eastern Bloc during the Cold War period. From 1949 to 1990  this small region was occupied by Soviets. Isolated from the rest of Europe that was living the opulence of the 70ies and 80ies, East Germany lived in a “cage” where police was suppressing every popular uprising and where its inhabitants were not permitted to leave their country or travel anywhere in the west bloc. The economy  was centrally planned and state owned, and as a consequence of that, this small country was living a life by itself. And what about fashion? European teenagers where exploding into “La Boum”  buying jeans and sneakers, bleaching their hair and dancing the most pop of the music the world had ever heard while East German teenagers had to deal with a kind of clothing that was functional, practical and uniformly standardizes. But clearly, the wind of fashion doesn’t stop in front of  borders and some East German citizens, inspired by youth movements as Punk and New Wave, started sewing their own clothes creating extravagant outfits that were a form of rebellion, a way to challenge the establishment, Continue Reading →

SNOW IS MELTING, STUDIO PRETZEL SS 2013

Posted on February 14, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Finally the snow is melting and the sun is out, and the prospective of a milder weather is real. Remember I’m writing from the North East of the “Boot” and in the last few days we had “the perfect snow” as meteorologists defined it.  That perfect snow really blocked everything, positiveness included, and instead of thinking about renovating my spring wardrobe I was more into searching for a new Woolrich and buying tights to wear, secretly, under my jeans. As i said today it’s sunny outside and as a cat that stretches out into the very first ray of sun,  I  extend my thought towards renovation again . Studio Pretzel SS 2013 LookBook, designed by our friend Emiliano Laszlo, bumped in our emails just today : what a better way to celebrate the end of winter , hopefully, with this collection? Its light weighted character, its pastel sky palette, its functionality and style is an ode to the good weather- good living. Along with classic signature shirts by StudioPretzel (maniacally made from the cut to the sewing ) you will find the LightDenim blazer and the blue Indigo Kimono pants. The first is a marvelous fresh jacket that stands for the universal use of denim also in hot temperatures, the second is another Pretzel symbol revisited ad improved. Emiliano loves Martial Arts and never looses occasion to purpose such perfect oriental uniforms by adding his all Florentine twist. The result is perfectly visible in these pictures shooted during last June’s Pitti Uomo and interpreted by Tomoteru ‘ToMo’ Saito. Artist, very well known “Madonnaro”, Tomoteru is such a StudioPretzel man: a conscious human being that lives his passions no matter what and which life is an intersection of cultures and experiences. Stretch towards StudioPretzel at La Ferrament Bologna, 40 Gradi Rome, Ruggine Cesenatico and online at WrongWeather.

http://www.studiopretzel.com/

Photo Above : LightDenim Jacket and shorts

LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE, TWOTHIRDS

Posted on February 7, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Depending on the dictionary, like-minded means in accord, compatible, harmonious, having a similar or identical opinion, disposition, etc.etc. It’s for this kind of people that TWOTHIRDS created its clothing line.

“Our planet is covered by two-thirds ocean. Our ocean gave us the gift of life. In turn the inspiring immensity of our ocean gave us our name: TWOTHIRDS. Our ocean makes us who we are and gives us immeasurable joy. We at TWOTHIRDS aim to address like-minded people; those who are awake and aware of the immense value of our oceans, people deeply connected to surfing and those who have a thirst for substance and style.”

TWOTHIRDS was founded in San Sebastian, Europe`s premier surf-city, some time ago just in front of the Ocean.  There you will find their concept store that is situated 50 meters from the Atlantic Ocean in `Calle Aldamar` 38.  At TT they use 10% of their gross profit margin to actively support measures to protect and preserve oceans as well as create awareness and educate . TT is a company that is trying to minimize the impact of any kind of fabric treatment using chlorine free wools, veg tan leather, untreated garments and by limiting the amount of colors in order  to minimize water usage. Continue Reading →

OH CHARLIE!

Posted on January 31, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Ok, too early to talk about swimwear but you perfectly know this is a serious thing and it’s not a last minute shop because you may find less or nothing in June/July. Swimwear requires thinking and trying, so be prepared from now. Steady the Buffs and check out The Charlie swimwear line by Matthew Zink. The Summer 2013 collection is designed and modeled to kill and inspired by the ‘70s happy years: Hawaii, Magnum PI, Irving Penn’s flowers and Leroy Granni’s vintage surf photography of the ‘60s and ‘70s.  Charlie by Matthew Zink is a swim lifestyle brand dedicated to the seduction of the perfect swimwear. A tribute to the decadence of the 1970’s,  to the Guy Borden gals, to the hedonist and glamour years. This summer just be sexy, it’s a much more happier life.

www.charliebymzstore.com

 

THE FEEL GOOD PHILOSPHY OF “SCOTH & SODA”

Posted on January 28, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Amsterdam based brand Scotch & Soda is currently one of my favorite spots when I’m in search for good casual pieces. I had one shirt by S&S for my birthday some time ago and I feel good in it. Since then, I never quite stopped getting enthusiast every time I pass in front of one of their Flagship stores. They are bright, they are smart and their fabrics are the best: wool, cotton, leather, no matter what you touch when you shop at Scotch, you will always find some good vibes. Softness is a must but not only. The color palette is also incredible. How did they obtained that green and that orange, how did they dyed this and that? A lot of questions, a lot of answers from your S&S clothes during the years. On the top of the hill, I feel 10 years younger when I wear one of their shirts. I feel fresher, I feel I’m wearing the right stuff, I fell at the right point, life seems happier. I’m not a teen since 1992 and blessed is the brand that brings me back to that glorious state. Continue Reading →

PORSELLI X JARDINS FLORIAN

Posted on January 24, 2013 by admin

Jardins Florian is a Design House, Online Store and Magazine.  A  “Maison” dedicated to developing products of high levels craftsmanship, design and innovation. Jardins Florian’s core values are collaboration, humanity, poetry, surprise, humor and sustainability with a true art de vivre and dolce vita spirit. Jardins Florian are quintessentially French and Italian in terms of style and refinement. After launching several collaborations ( a scented candle with luxury organic spa brand, ila, some customized Rolex watches in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department, a tote bag collaboration with U.S. brand The Good Flock) Jardins Florian is delighted present its last partnership. It’s an exclusive ballerina shoe born from the joint effort with the authority on Italian dance shoes, E. Porselli.  Since its creation in 1919, Porselli has been synonymous with Italian dance throughout the world. The first Porselli x Jardins Florian collection includes three different styles: red leather, black suede x black leather patent, light grey x fuchsia. Best ballerina you can walk and dance in? We have no doubts, Porselli x Jardins Florian hast the right spirit, the intact tradition and the quality your next pair of ballerina shoes need to have.

http://www.jardinsflorian.com/

 

ORLEY, YOUR SPRING SOURCE

Posted on January 22, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

How long is January? It’s a never ending month, the time doesn’t pass here. Writing form the  north part of Italy where the sun doesn’t comes out since 3 weeks and where the presence of fog, rain, snow is constant. So don’t ask me why I can’t cope with winter 2013-2014 fashion shows. The future is also a deluxe item we cannot afford, the present? Visualizing ourselves in spring clothes that are already popping in stores can be much more productive.  So my present is made also by this lovely American brand called Orley. Lively, simple, joyful and with a terrific line of ties and accessories I would wear. Orley is a knitwear label designed by Matthew Orley, Alex Orley and Samantha Florence that is specialized in mixing craftsmanship and design to create unique, exciting, tempting clothes. Humor and elegant in a casual way, this brand look out onto spring season with a series of simple elements  that are never stolen quotations but re-contextualized references. Indeed a brand to follow, to support… and to buy!

http://orley.us/

 

WE ARE NOT AVANT-GARDE, MAREUNROL’S

Posted on January 16, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

With everyone trying to find out the last hot designer and opening special talents agencies, the world seems a happier place. Tons of newness in the air, tons of new names popping out, but what’s the point if you check this designers out 6 months later and they are disappeared? The good thing is that the new is always knocking at the door, the bad thing is that clients are romantic and they want their relationships (with designer) to last forever. MAREUNROL’S, good very good, is destined to last more than two season for sure. Having a panoramic view to their work in the last 10 years I can perceive a continuity and a strength I rarely seen on new brands. MAREUNROL’S was established in 2002 by the fashion designers Mārīte Mastiņa and Rolands Pēterkops. They are based in Riga, Latvia and winners of the 24th festival of photography and fashion Hyeres 2009. Mārīte and Rolands studied at the Riga Design Art College and Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts. MAREUNROL’S collections are concept based where clothes are often accompanied by specially designed sets, video projections, installations and anything can help in revealing their concept. Their clothes can be considered avant-garde, but in reality it’s wearable fashion, it’s made for the public and made to generate emotions.

 

Continue Reading →

CECIL BEATON FABRICS

Posted on January 9, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

We tend to think about Cecil Beaton for his ethereal, stylishly perfect pictures. We all know he was a bon vivant and an extraordinarily well introduced person. The rich and famous, the glamour, the terrific irony, the epic fashion moments.  Let me call Mr. Beaton an “art machine” because few people I have ideally met had been that fecund. No matter what he was doing: from the sets to the make up and styling, till the flower decorations passing by the creation of special furniture and interior designs, he was delivering beauty, always. That was obtained mainly because Beaton was making it all, and controlling it all. None knows what’s in your mind better than you, how true is that? The sketching? A regular job for Mr.Beaton who  loved spending  time with a pencil in his hand putting down ideas and visions. Drawn in 1948 and commissioned by Zika Ascher for use in his contemporary collection of haute couture textiles, the Cecil Beaton Fabric Collection is just a small part of the genius inside of this big personality. I love the fact that after so many years, that “capsule” is so contemporary and still produced by Beaudesert London. Continue Reading →

WALNUT BY DOUCAL’S

Posted on January 7, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

I think we are sneakers addict. I also think I would love to wear something different next spring without looking like a stiffed man (with a Fedora hat on maybe, oh my gosh that is so 2011!) Yes I’m talking about casual shoes, about relaxed elegance and fresh feet. The Walnut moccasin by Doucal’s seems a perfectly correct option. The inspiration? Native Americans. The material? The softest skin on heart colored in apuana marrone, otter rosso, otter soleil and apuana testa di moro. The structure? It’s one piece of leather folded like the most meticulous of the origami. Doucal’s is an Italian company nestled in Montegranaro- Marche. This region, known around the world as Italy’s heart of production for handcrafted excellence of glamorous footwear, is where the Giannini family originally founded the Doucal’s brand 40 years ago. Italian craftsmanship embracing the modern perspective we can wear without looking like a colonial man/ banker? Walnut, there we go.

http://www.doucals.it/

 

NEW STRIPES, ACNE

Posted on December 20, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

As we approach the end of the world and this may be my last post at The Harlow , give me a break, the Spring Summer clothing is arriving into shops and online shops  dressing windows and giving to this cold landscape some glimpses of positive vibes. The spirit of a new a season, the future again, the project of our lives to be re invented . So the world won’t end tomorrow and Acne is purposing the best stripes you ever imagined. Are you a fan of stripes? I’m one. After some years of classic black and white stripes, beige and black, and black and white, it’s time to change. For Spring Summer 2013 , stripes will be thicker, bolder and separating your body spaces with a new palette. Be ready to archive the old mariner t-shirt and embrace the new stripes. The New Era is coming? Some new stripes are ready.

http://shop.acnestudios.com/

PAS DE CALAIS SPRING SUMMER 2013

Posted on December 11, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

How Harlow  is this? On  a clear day looking over the Channel, the white cliff of Dover come into view. The Famous “Dentelle De Calais” was there:  one of the most beautiful laces in the world. On a clear day, the Pas De Calais concept was born. Inspired by the rich heritage of this region, its way of living, its marvelous and delicate lace. The purity and the nostalgia of that region inspired a brand that is based on modern casual design with a romantic touch. Launched in 1998 Pas De Calais embodies the best of the East and West. With a deep respect for tradition, fine quality and natural beauty, this Tokyo-based women’s wear label combines Japanese technical innovation and French timeless classics creating a balanced elegance that is full of subtle surprises. Proposing realistic ready-to-wear and accessories with impeccable taste and materials, Pas De Calais captures the essence of casual modern design. After opening its first store in Tokyo in 1998, Pas De Calais now has 20 stores in Japan. Stocked throughout the world in the finest boutiques and department stores Pas De Calais will be opening in Spring 2013 its first Flagship store in Soho, New York.  The Pas De Calais Spring Summer 2013 was the  right moment to simplify and go back to nature. Continue Reading →

NAMI SPRING SUMMER 2013

Posted on November 29, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Nami is an old acquaintance. I think it was 1995 when I first met her in New York.  At the time, she was working in an uptown atelier. I didn’t know anything about fashion, but from the airport we went straight to her work place and that was amazing. I still remember there were a large amount of gowns  on the racks . Flamboyant, rich, truly American. They were heaven. I later discovered that it was “just”  Geoffrey  Beene’s  headquarters. Just. Curious how a 22 years old boy arrives in New York and the first place he sees is the atelier of one of the best American Designers.  Fresh from a BFA at the Rhode Island School of design, Nami was starting her career in those years.  Beene, J.Crew, Moschino in Milan and Puma in Germany,  she spent  almost  twelve years around the world  but her home was clearly New York, she was meant to stay there. I remember she was sewing in peace in her own Chelsea Apartment, a lovely place,  and uptown girls were coming and going because they wanted special dresses made from her. She was just different and still, after so many years, she  is. Her style? Clean, minimal, existential.  I remember things she did in the past that were Rick Owens much more before Rick Owens launched his collection. After her European adventure, Nami relocated to Brooklyn and started to produce her small collection made of few, incredible pieces. Continue Reading →

CROSSING THE OCEAN IN STYLE, GIORGIO DI SANT’ANGELO

Posted on November 27, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Oh Italians, they are such adventurous fellows. They may be very boring travelers but for sure, they are flamboyant immigrants.  They may not speak a word of any foreign language but for sure they are ready to risk. When the whatever country seems way much better than your own, what can you lose? Italians always want to live somewhere else, they are never satisfied. I think sometimes they get  to be good designers for this reasons, they are perfectionists always ready to relocate somewhere over Paris or North America. The most fashionable of all Italian immigrants arrived in New York in the 60’ies : he was named  Giorgio di Sant’Angelo, the son of a count from Florence.  Born in 1933, Di Sant’Angelo  was clearly an artist and despite  his degree in Architecture  he also studied industrial design and ceramics and attended a 6 months art course helded by someone called Pablo Picasso.  Under the encouragement of the Cubist co-founder, Di Sant’Angelo  created an animated cartoon and sent it to Walt Disney. Disney flew him to Hollywood to collaborate, but the young Italian guy was not able to speak a word of English and after 15 days in Los Angeles  he relocated to New York City in search for another adventure. As the cartoon field was a failure, Di Sant’Angelo started to work as a textile artist and interior designer making his name jumping from Z to A list in few months. Continue Reading →

THE ANIMAL COLLECTION

Posted on November 23, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

We fell in love immediately with this “Animal Collection”  by LC23: it’s our Harlow side you know. Love, tenderness  and ,off course, animals. Characterized by eight unisex models of sweatshirts all countersigned by applications of hilarious fabric prints (penguins, birds, fishes, dinosaurs, hens, ducklings, wolves, elks and butterflies) this  completely handmade capsule wakes up our feelings of respect for nature and creatures of the world.  LC23, founded in 2010 by Leo Colacicco, started with handmade shirts and continues now  with this pleasant, and very well done, line of sweatshirts. The whole new collection can be seen online and  it’s absolutely  something to add to your Christmas gift list.

http://www.lc23.it

PEB CLOTHING S/S 2013

Posted on November 20, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Welcome to the new season. Every time Christmas is approaching, logically, it’s time for us to turn the page and look further on. Our readers, fashion souled and spirited, wink, are already projected in into the next season so here is the beginning of our journey towards mild weather, sun, sea and nature. In case the world won’t finish on December 21st, you will find the marvelous Spring Summer 2013  Peb Collection waiting for you at LuisaViaRoma or other fancy boutiques all over the world. The Peb Clothing company was created in 2008 with the main objective of designing items that don’t follow trends. Simple forms are created with a certain devotion to details and Peb is proud to design and produce in Italy. This is the first real collection by the PEB guys and it’s an ensamble that will conquer casual , and less casual, men. Continue Reading →

BOUTIQUE OF KNOWLEDGE

Posted on November 15, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Lately I have been  obsessively asking myself about the point of keeping a large amount of magazines and books when technology allows to have everything in a click.  All that precious space I could use for something else, would I throw out everything for some fresh air? We are so used to have an information/picture in seconds that we all run to Google forgetting our “papers” . Why do we rely on Gg so much? Answer, we are just lazy cows.  As I observe all mayor historic  newspapers auctioning their photographic archives, I can’t help but wonder why this people is selling their “privileged” knowledge . I have been researching for some fashion photographs online and there was no trace of them. Important shootings made by masters, I’m not talking about any niche stuff.  And suddenly  the weight, and price, of books was making sense again. The only way to reach a precise information is all there in your exclusive “boutique of knowledge”. Continue Reading →

CARHARTT CAR-LUX HOODED THERMO SWEAT

Posted on November 7, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

The first time I saw this signature piece by Carhartt, I fell in love. There were no places here in Italy to buy this rigid, “strange” hooded sweater. Thank god I flew to New York a month later and the so wanted item was found at “What Comes Around Goes Around”. Apres moi, le boom. It was 1994 when “Work In Progress” initiated a distribution network for Carhartt across Europe, introducing a selection of classic products from the original work wear range into a new market. Success was immediate; the authentic Carhartt products quickly became popular with both fans of traditional US heritage garments and with the nascent European urban culture scene. Carhartt was part of the uniform adopted by Brit Pop, Club Culture and Rave followers. It was more than a brand, it was a way of living. Every young man was wearing something from Carhart. Durable, light and unexpensive, that hooded thermo sweat kept  me the warmest boy even when it was very cold outside. I was maybe dancing in a silk Gucci shirt, but my Cararth jacket was always waiting for me at the loackroom. After so many years in the market the Car-Lux is still one of my favourites items. Enriched in colours and prints, it is something I would copy-buy forever. Forever.

http://www.carhartt-wip.com/

GUCCI CRUISE 2013

Posted on October 30, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

The colder it gets, the summery I browse. As my colleague Teresa once said, fashion is a dream, a great escapade. Many of us won’t leave winter for a single day for at least three months, can you imagine? It’s Better To Travel, as my beloved Swing Out Sister once sang, at least in our minds. Plenty of writers that wrote exotic books about places they have never been. Plenty of fashion offers for a Sunny season somewhere else. Welcome to the game of cruise collections where the sun shines bright and women goes updated to the very last trend. I remember a good friend who used to go around in cheap clothes. She was so charming everyone was asking what she was wearing. She used to reply ” It’s blablah cruise line”. People were amazed. Not for the designer name she made up but because of that cruise in the end. The cruise is the last of everybody’s necessity, the ultimate promised land: cruise means you can, cruise means you are so bored that you can afford to go shopping for 8 seasons a year. Continue Reading →

VOGUING AND THE HOUSE BALLROOM SCENE OF NEW YORK CITY 1989-1992

Posted on October 23, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Paris Dupree was at Footsteps, an after-hour club between 2nd Avenue and 14th Street, the day she gave a name to Voguing. Not that she invented it, a lot of poses come from African and Egyptian hieroglyphics and there are traces of it in American masculine jails and balls of the 20ies, but she sharped it, defined it, glamorized it. She was hanging at Footsteps then with a couple of friends throwing shade at other Queens. Paris had a Vogue Magazine in her purse, and while she was dancing she took it out pointed a page and imitated the pose of a model. Another queen came up from the crowd pointed a page, and did a pose. Paris returned: the battle had started. The Voguing was born. The mechanism that lead to the creation of Houses, balls, competitions was meant to last a decade. Voguing was an interpretation of society based on glamour and on matriarchal kind of family. There was a mother, in some cases a father, and there were children joining along the way. Every house had his name, his statement and signature pose. Continue Reading →

MY MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA DRAPED T-SHIRT

Posted on October 22, 2012 by Clara G

Maybe I was born wearing Maison Martin Margiela, and this is why I feel such a strong identification with this non-designer fashion house. I can not remember which was my first piece but roughly the 40% of the labels in my closet are attached with four white stitches (the Margiela discrete trademark), I am sure that everything I have ever bought it is still in my closet, perfectly wearable, even the garments from the Hermes collections designed by Martin Margiela on the late 90’s. I have some impossible shoes and dresses but also very simple and easy pieces like this grey-blue t-shirt bought here in Berlin last Spring, both casual and fashionable, perfect with leggings and oxford shoes, but also with formal pants and high healed sandals. It has been my favourite basic this summer, this is what I love from Margiela, it is minimal but not boring, it is well done but it is not preppy, it is special but not obvious. Continue Reading →

LES NE’RE’IDES

Posted on October 18, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Les Néréides, créatueurs de bijoux haute fantasie, was created in 1980 by Pascale and Enzo Ammadeo with the intent of making “pizzaz” fine costume jewellery. In Greek mythology, the Néréides were sea nymphs daughters of Nereus, the old man of the sea. When there was 50 of them, they had the power to re invent themselves. The name, chosen by Pascale’s grandfather, was never been so suitable to a jewellery line. During the years Néréides has always found its inspiration in travelling and collecting items. Every trip made by Pascale and Enzo, was the discover of a new world with a consequent come back in France with small treasures made of old dolls, night lights, statues, vintage jewellery and of course, paintings. Néréides had been growing up along the years meeting the tastes of a major number of clients. They have created indeed small collection lines (Le Bucoluques, Les Histoires, Les Bourgeoises, Les Citadines, Les Precieuses) that embrace the nature, tales, Italian classics. From noble materials, till easy to wear jewellery to mix with the busy woman’s wardrobe,  every woman is represented. Irony, joye de vivre, this small company is an example of familiar enduring legacy, 360 degrees creativity and witty philosophy.

Discover les Néreides at http://www.lesnereides.com/

THE FIRST 40 YEARS

Posted on October 12, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Apparently getting older has its positive turn ons: you can write a memoir, you can trace your past, finally you have one. W Magazine celebrates its 40th birthday with this book we have already pre-ordered. We cannot miss it. True, W had been pushing too much lately. True we had been on and off with our subscription but  it’s 40 years of groundbreaking fashion stories, no matter if they caused a Steven Klein allergy on most of us. W has also very good qualities like its big size, its like velvet paper,  its pop character that never bores. This book then deserves to be on our shelves. I remember with immense pleasure unwrapping W Magazine and going straight to the last page. Oh The Countess Louise J.Esterhazy and her column called Last Laugh; it were closing with irony all that sex, all that gold, all that artifact world. What a better way to tell your readers, guys, don’t take it seriously? Is The Countess still writing for W? The First 40 Year is a book  divided into three sections—Who, Where, and Wow—supervised-edited by Stefano Tonchi and celebrating in full regalia 40 years of excesses good writing and great photographers. Do we need more from a book?

TIM WALKER, STORY TELLER

Posted on October 8, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Who is the most playful of contemporary fashion photographers? Who is driving you into wonderland every time you surf the pages of a magazine? Who is delivering irony and intelligence without playing with the same old sex and nudity? Who is taking your hands and give you a tour of his contorted mind for free? Who is playing with proportions (I think Alice in Wonderland definitely left a mark on him) so you can feel vertigo? Who did the fabulous Vogue 2012 photo shooting styled by Grace Coddington at the Ritz (before its closure for maintenance) that saw Kate Moss placed like a statue above an immense chimney? Oh, she was so beautiful, so petite, so big at the same time. The nicest Moss’s photo shooting in years… and I never tough someone could make an outstanding work with her any longer. Not after her image is intoxicating us in every corner.But he did. Ladies and Gents, British photographer Tim Walker. Maybe the most visually exciting and influential of fashion photographers working today. Extravagant, grotesque, fabulous and from the 18th October on show at The Somerset House in London. The exhibition will be accompanied by a series of events and there will be the opportunity to see a series of films specially curated by Tim himself. The “Story Teller” won’t let you cold, I’m sure. The last of fashion photographers believing in “grandeur” and splendor needs to be seen. A reason more for jetting to London City this autumn.

http://www.somersethouse.org.uk

MY PRADA PRESCRIPTION GLASSES

Posted on October 8, 2012 by Clara G

LOLITA has been one of the most influential books of my life: love as an obsession, as illness, but beautiful in the end, even in its darkest side.

To have myopia is one of the most strange situations. I don’t use glasses in my daily life, I do it as an exercise, this is the way I am. I am not able to see properly, my eyes are not perfect anymore. Somehow myopia protects me when I get tired of reality and when reality hurts, but sometimes I feel weak, insecure. It is also a barrier for the others, I don’t recognize faces easily and people think at first that I am arrogant. I like glasses as an object, I really need them, but I don’t use them. I know it sounds strange when I say it, but I am not sure that I want to see properly like before. Continue Reading →

GAP + GQ’S BEST MENSWEAR DESIGNERS

Posted on October 3, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

GQ’s six Best Menswear Designers in America for 2012 had been nominated : BLK DNM, Ian Velardi, Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, Ovadia & Sons, Saturdays NYC and Todd Snyder. They are six of the most representative talents of United Stated. As a reward to their passion for menswear,  they have teamed up with GAP  to create a  Limited-Edition Menswear Collection available now at Select Gap Stores and online.
“From the very early stages of the design process, we knew this collection was going to be something our customers were drawn to,” said Mark Breitbard,  “These designers are shaping the future of menswear, and it’s an honor to bring their distinct visions to life in a way that complements Gap’s casual American point of view.”
Johan Lindeberg of BLK DNM celebrates the new uniform of the way-downtown set, where black jeans share sartorial space with tuxedo jackets and leather bombers while  Ian Velardi  fuses active sportswear with classic tailoring techniques.  Mark McNairy New Amsterdam instead,  push classic American sportswear  through new  boundaries and mix it with military, work wear creating a rebellious and playful aplomb. Twin brothers Ariel and Shimon Ovadia, of Ovadia & Sons, update  classic menswear items with unexpected details and pops of color. Saturdays NYC, founded by Morgan Collett, Josh Rosen  and Colin Tunstall, brings surf style to the everyday urban life. Todd Snyder’s designs reside at the intersection of rugged and refined.
The fabulous 6 are ready to cheer t your Autumn with this original project that brings in  shops a high dose of  innovation, positiveness and desire to live.

http://www.gap.eu/

MY PRADA FLAME WEDGE SANDALS

Posted on October 1, 2012 by Clara G

When I bought this sandals last summer, someone told me “I think I will like them in a couple of years…”  and this is the exact point with Miuccia. She is always working right on the edge, maybe too early for us. She is opening paths. Since the very beginning it has been always like that…and my friend is very clever, he really is.
I discovered this sandals in a picture on a March Issue of  Harpers Bazaar Magazine. They surprised me in a deep way, they seemed extravagant but also desirable with some pop art taste. I can imagine Roy Lichtenstein’s women wearing them, and I love Lichtenstein.
The first idea in my mind was “fire in the asphalt”, to play with fire, to be on fire… how could I resist it? No way, I had to buy them. Continue Reading →

ADRIAN LTD. VINTAGE HATS

Posted on September 27, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Los Angeles based Marilyn Glass, one of the foremost private dealers-collectors of couture and vintage fashion, is currently selling a selection of marvelous hats by Adrian Ltd.  Adrian Adolph Greenberg, born on March 3 1903, was widely known as Adrian, the fabulous dress maker. He was maybe the best  American costume designer ever existed and  worked non stop for Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer from 1930 till 1940. During his career, Adrian designed costumes for over 250 films and his screen credits ,usually read as “Gowns by Adrian” , were  spectacular trademarks of never reached before beauty. The Wizard Of Oz, The Women, Lovely To Look At, Camille, Grand Hotel, Anna Karenina are only few of the films he “dressed” . He not only created a neat style for a  deluxe parallel Hollywood world but also forged the images of many actresses. Just think about Joan Crawford’s outfits and her large shoulder pads. They made her look unique, powerful and later spawned a fashion trend that soon conquered the majority of women. In late 40s, Adrian left MGM and established his own fashion house. From this last period of work comes Marilyn Glass’s hats: some were made to order for big department store, some were custom made for Adrian’s demanding clientele. If you like to collect fashion pieces, these hats are museum ones,  you cannot miss this sale. If you don’t mind the possession, just browse them for fun. The genius of millinery? Adrian had it.

http://marilynglassadrianhats.avl.1stdibs.com

Photo: 1947 Adrian Hat Ad via http://portobellohats.tumblr.com/

 

WOOL TOUCH, WOLSEY

Posted on September 24, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

So Autumn is here. So this is the very last call to organize your winter wardrobe and you will need, for sure, a new wool jumper. What’s warmer than wool, what’s better than a material that let your body transpire? Would you really want to wear one of those low cost jumpers made of strange fibers to find yourself entrapped in a swimming cap? I repeat, it’s autumn. You can buy any summer item from those low costs brands but don’t you dare to buy a jumper, you will be disappointed. I had been trying it often: at touch it’s emery, when you wash it once it then looks scruffy. Shoulders  are cut following the measures of a midget  (to save material). It can be good to clean your wood floor but for that you can buy a Swiffer Dust, it works better. Just remember that wool is a precious material, it has a cost. Just visualize the process to obtain it, the work behind it and you will understand that it’s not possible to buy anything comparable to wool for 29.99 euros. It’s not the case of Wolsey which produces in England since 1755. Continue Reading →

DARE TO WEAR

Posted on September 18, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Sue Kreitzman, the lovely woman you see in  the picture above, is an entrepreneur.  Quite difficult to define her in a different way: she is a curator, a cook  and an artist. “I am an expatriate New Yorker, living in London for many years. I’ve had a long and successful career as a food writer, but something happened in 1998 (I’m still not sure what) and I stopped writing and cooking, and began drawing, painting, and building assemblages instead. It was as if a violent fever had overtaken me (a fever which still rages), made all the more mysterious by the fact that I had never done such a thing before” .Sue, as a curator, is now launching a project called “Dare to Wear”. DtW is a collective exhibition  made by  Wild Old Women, and a few Wild Old Men, revolving around the theme of adornment and fashion. At the gallery located at the London  St. Pancras Church’s  Cript, you will find exaggerated depictions of jewelry and clothing. Talismans, amulets, superstition, story telling, psychological and spiritual armour, disguise, exuberance, weird joy, and – of course – art were the inspiration of this funny collection of items. Continue Reading →

ANTONIO’S WORLD

Posted on September 14, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Antonio Lopez (1943-1987) redefined fashion imagery with his portrayal of Pat Cleveland, Jerry Hall, Jane Forth, Grace Jones and Jessica Lange: the so called “Anotnio¡s Girls”. Inspired by his muses, he created a body of work by conveing the human form and the couture ornament into surrealistic, abstract, pop drawings. Antonio was not only an artist in the whole meaning of it but also a “viveur”, an icon, a witness of a time of exuberant creative productivity and consumption. The Suzanne Geiss Company is showcasing three decades of Lopez’s polymathic creative output including never seen before drawings, photographs and ephemera. The “Anonio’s World” is celebrating and honouring a sadly missed, and never replaced, fashion talent.

Sptember 7- October 20, 2012

The Suzanne Geiss Company

76, Grand St. New York NY

 

MY VLADIMIR KARALEEV LEATHER TOP

Posted on September 13, 2012 by Clara G

In Berlin-Mitte, where I live, there is a fashion shop that is completely empty. The door is open during usual working hours and the shop is huge, with an amazing storefront in a busy street but, it is empty. The only sign of life is a beautiful big vase with fresh flowers on the floor. If you have enough courage to enter the shop (although you will think it is under construction or more likely just abandoned) and you walk through the white space, you will find a spiral staircase. If you go downstairs, finally, in the basement, you will find the clothes in a dark area without natural light and a big projection in the main wall showing the upper floor, totally white and empty. 100% Berlin, here nothing seems to be what it really is. The big adventure is to find it and enter this shop, called Apartment, an iconic place in the City, it’s worth a visit. Continue Reading →

THE HONOURABLE MRS GRAHAM’S GARNET NECKLACE

Posted on September 12, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

The Honourable Mrs Grahams is one of Gainsborough’s most famous paintings. Mrs Graham (1757-1792) was born the Honourable Mary Cathcart, daughter of 9th Baron Cathcart, who was Ambassador to Catherine the Great. She married the Perthshire landowner Thomas Graham in 1774. After her death in 1792, the portrait was bequeathed to the National Gallery Of Scotland by one of their descendants on condition that it never leaves the country. Still one of the best pieces of The National Galleries Of Scotland, the portrait has been inspirational to  Paula Bolton that has included it in an exclusive capsule jewellery collection made for NGS. A square-cut garnet on a simple 24 carat gold-plated sterling silver chain to surprise, to be deliberately seventeenth-century. 

http://www.nationalgalleries.org/shop/online-shop/

IT’S ABOUT FAITH, IT’S ABOUT TRUST. ALESSIA XOCCATO FW12-13

Posted on September 11, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

Few adjective can describe collections by Alessia Xoccato: essential, clean, wearable. The Italian designer, born in Vicenza, delivers an ensable (in stores now) that is totally in line with her philosophy and her way of perceiving fashion. Apparently far from selling politics that impose to Italian designers the creation of clothes destined to a client over the top living in exotic places, Alessia thinks about women she knows. Coherent with the past, her new pieces are a logic story tha pass by the creation of new elements like the fantastic macro boucle’ fabric used for scarfs, bags, vests. Little coats also are masterpieces. Cut to kill, like dressess: made for “walking” from daytime till night, for real. Xoccato clients can abuse of her clothes, never be bored and avoid side effects. The not  aggressive razor shaped silhouette, typical of the designer, never leads to vulgarity and in her intent of being different and creating something new/wearable,  Xoccato never disappoints.

http://www.alessiaxoccato.com/

Continue Reading →

THE LITTLE MATCH GIRL, Y’S

Posted on September 4, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

There is something about the 90ies I will never get over:  girls’ relaxed attitude.  Preppies, Punks or Business Ladies had a common denominator:  the masculine wardrobe. After years in Easter Eggs paper dresses, the liberation came. Preppies  were wearing Oxford shirts by Ralph Lauren, punks were in boyfriend’s bondage trousers and motorbike jackets,  business ladies wore nothing but a tailleur. Easy like Sunday Morning , to quote Lionel, that was the attitude.  This beginning of  century saw, instead,  a return to the classic women’s wear and the death of comfort. The pendulum that comes and goes. Have a walk on a friday night and you will see foot bleeding  girls sitting on the streets crying like sealskins. Too much “production”? Up to you, but if you are not into “cocktail looks” 24hours a day, check out the Y’s collection in stores now. It’s another girl, another planet. It’s made for a woman that likes to be casual and free (and warm when possible). A woman that is not in the mainstream and doesn’t need to show her silhouette all the time. Beautiful wool capes are coupled with baggy pants, exquisite tricots matches with the most classic of the tartans. The conceptual and modern version of “The Little Match Girl” is just marvelous and sexier than any Kardashian.

http://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/ys/

Continue Reading →

MY TOM FORD FOR YSL TOP

Posted on August 31, 2012 by Clara G

I can remember the impact of  Yves Saint Laurent fall/winter 2003 collection. It was a real shock, a clear breaking point in the history of such an iconic Fashion House. It was a real war announcement between Tom Ford and Yves Saitn Laurent. Somehow the revolutionary an shy Yves became a grey designer, quite correct, but no more, very little else to say for someone that had said almost everything in fashion. And then the irruption of the king of porn chic: the marketing expert arriving in Paris with all those impossible collections and models nearly nude in transparent-minimum dresses. Too much for the genius of Saint Laurent who started to hate Ford and began a personal war against the new designer of “his” Maison. Clearly, after some time, Yves had never been losing a battle, not even this one.

Continue Reading →

BEING AGYNESS

Posted on August 27, 2012 by Marco Maggetto

To be a good model, you have to be beautiful. And sometimes is not even that. Who knows what it takes to be a goddess. It’s in the bones they say, it’s not even that I think. To emerge in a sea of no name fishes it’s difficult, sometimes impossible. For us, sons of the supermodels era, there were faces and bodies with a name. LindaNaiomiTatianaClaudiand on. For new generations, there is nothing more than untitled canvas. The few exceptions can be counted using the fingers of your hand.  It’s not bad nor good, it’s  just different. Agyness Deyn, marvellous Brit from Manchester, can be counted: people remember her name, people admire her “funny” looks and follow her. She is  not only a mannequin but a real IT girl, a clever one, someone who choose freely her lifestyle. She is a whole “personaggio Pirandelliano”, a complete world, a person that can play with her hair and globally raise sells of peroxide. No surprise then when  Aggy teamed up with DrMarten’s for a capsule collection. She has all the expertise and travelled eye to do it.  The result is enjoyable, ironic, unpretentious (like her). Do you like daisies? Do you like the 90ies? Did you miss those impossible DrMartens with platform that were sold at CadmenLock in 1994?  Have a look, you’re going to love it.

http://store.drmartens.co.uk/c-274-agyness-deyn.aspx

HYPARHEDRA

Posted on August 22, 2012 by admin

Giuliana Mancinelli Bonafaccia discovered her interest in jewellery while she was working and studying architecture and interior-design. A passion that is the result of a strong commitment and knowledge, that soon leads her to attend some gemology classes at the IGI institute of Antwerp, specializing in “Colored Stones Identification,” “Colored Stones Grading and Evaluation” and “Pearls Grading and Evaluation.” Her jewelry line was born in 2007 while Presqu*ile was open in March 2010 in Rome. It’s an eclectic and multifunctional space, it displays singular creations, unique or limited edition pieces that exemplify the ideals of meticulous research balanced between tradition and innovation. A place where art, design, fashion and jewellery coexist in the spirit of exclusivity. Giuliana’s approach is far away from any classification or stereotype. Her work becomes unique thanks to her continuous exploring and experimenting with different materials. Each particular piece is characterized by an unconventional and unique choice which is revealed with the use of fine materials such as galuchat, stingray leather, typical of the Louis XV era. Continue Reading →