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1994, PIETER HUGO

Posted on January 11, 2017 by Marco Maggetto

Pieter Hugo, born1976, in Johannesburg is one of our favorite contemporary photographers. Recurring theme: most of the times it is Africa and it’s not only about the beauty of this immense continent, it’s also political, it’s complaint, it’s romanticism, it’s narrative. Like his next exibithion  at New York gallery Yossi Milo called 1994 on view from January 26 – March 11. Pieter Hugo’s show will be made of color photographs taken of children born in Rwanda and South Africa after the year 1994, the year of the Rwandan genocides and of the end of Apartheid in South Africa. Wearing often fanciful clothes and posed in nature, each child symbolizes the budding hope of a life unladen by active oppression, yet is rooted inextricably in the landscape into which they were born.

Pieter Hugo’s major museum solo exhibitions: The Hague Museum of Photography, Musée de l’Elysée in Lausanne, Ludwig Museum in Budapest, Fotografiska in Stockholm, MAXXI in Rome and the Institute of Modern Art Brisbane, among others.

Public and private collections: the Museum of Modern Art, V&A Museum, San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art, J Paul Getty Museum, Walther Collection, Deutsche Börse Group, Folkwang Museum and Huis Marseille.

Ph. Miss Moss

 

THE MARTIN MARGIELA YEARS

Posted on October 9, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

We are all happy about the Galliano’s rentree. Nothing is more alluring than mistakes converted into personal improvements. The fashion system, the pressure of creating something new 4 times a year, the raise and the fall. The forgiveness. But, does anyone really remember who Martin Margiela was? And what he has created along 90ies? The bashful fellow from Belgium, that never really appeared in public, radically changed the way fashion was conceived. Without him, no Rick Owens, no Damir Domas, no hundreds of other conceptual designers. Margiela just implanted the seed of a different way of making clothes. From rainy, but highly creative, Antwerp he moved to Paris and appointed at Jean Paul Gaultier. Few years and his own Maison was opened: strong, anti-Fashion, different. The very first defilees, as documented in a Arte Tv Documentary called “Anti-Fashion” that you can watch here , took place  in a small scruffy apartment. After-show parties, where champagne and beer were sipped from plastic glasses, were unpretentious, young and optimistic: everybody were laughing and smoking, playing, having fun. No bloggers no selfies. Margiela, an atelier where everything was made conceptually. A place where shapes and silhouettes were not so important and perfection never foundamental.

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PEOPLE HAVE THE POWER, VALTAGS

Posted on September 23, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Wear a funny jewel no matter what. Wear a statement, a declaration, phrases that are, in a way, signature of your inner side. And if it’s a special occasion there is a made to measure service that won’t leave you…speechless. Born in Spring of 2013, the bright oversized offshoot of ValentineTags are made in silver, gold and plastic by designer Valentine Breton des Loÿs who want to spread some words. Love messages, anthems, protests: each and every piece is produced in an edition of 100 and only one series is available at a time. The world is yours.
http://www.valtags.com/

PROPEREST COAT, ISABELL DE HILLERIN

Posted on August 26, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

It’s time to think about Fall, even if summer goes on in south Europe- South America. Lately, fashion is… just all about your geographical location. A bit of summer there, a bit of winter here. While someone is buying a bikini, another one, very far away, is buying a wool jumper. For those women that need to stay warm, I recommend nothing new but … a coat. Doesn’t matter if you are a gal or a cougar, the next season won’t see any puffy jackets , nor parkas, around. It’s coat time and if you haven’t yet, get one as soon as possible. My proposal, I’m still endorsing young emerging designers after all, is by Isabell De Hillerin. A young Berliner that founded his fashion house in 2010 and who has it clear: minimalism always wins and can be minimal even with embroidery and decoration touches. De Hillerin designs in a sensitive way and her interpretation of contemporary and sustainable fashion is remarkable. Time constants: a combination of clean, innovative cuts and folkloric handmade Romanian and Moldovan materials to be mixed in the name of  elegance and pizzaz. Pictured above is a coat from her fall-winter 2014 which makes no exception. It’s a pure garment: an egg shaped coat that also reminds coleopters. It has a practical yet warm high neck and it speaks clearly: this is artisanal, this is a timeless piece, this is for many winters to come.

http://www.isabelldehillerin.com/

PETER HUJAR

Posted on August 5, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Not so much time left, until 24th August, to see this marvelous selection of pictures by American photographer Peter Hujar. Held at Maureen Paley Gallery London, this is the third solo exhibition to take place  at 21 Herald Street.

He worked in black and white, he documented a tragedy in New York. He was a great friend of Diane Arbus, and both were admirers of Weegee and shared his dark vision. Hujar subjects spaced from the catacombs in Palermo to abandoned, wrecked cars. Despite an apparent modern approach, Hujar was a classicist that payed tributes to his role model photographers: Atget and Brassaï. Sensible, with a sharped eye for detail, Hujar is considered now a master for his particular way of recount grace in disintegration with a  deep sense of mortality. In her introduction to Portraits in Life and Death, Susan Sontag wrote, “… Fleshed and moist-eyed friends and acquaintances stand, sit, slouch, mostly lie – and are made to appear to meditate on their own mortality… Peter Hujar knows that portraits in life are always, also, portraits in death.”

Photo: David Wojnarowicz Reclining (II) , vintage gelatin silver print.

http://www.maureenpaley.com/

AMAZONLIFE

Posted on July 21, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Every year something like 16.000 square kilometers of Amazonian forest are destroyed. Besides losing a rich patrimony of biodiversity, this “crime” also influences the climatic system of our planet. Amazon is one of the most important wedges on the global climatic mosaic: it regulates damp, it mitigates thermal excursions and stores CO2.
Amazonlife is a brand produced by Italian “Braccialini” that uses impact zero raw materials and sustains WWF Italia by creating a small collection of accessories that are high in functionality and multipurpose. Created with cotton, flax, juta, coconuts, straws derived from military camp beds and soldier’s gummed ponchos, every piece is made with the contribution of Indios: Amazonlife represents an economic alternative for the local populations, contributing to the diffusion of their culture and safeguard of the last great green lung of the Planet.

http://www.amazonlife.it


ACE&TATE

Posted on July 1, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Are you searching for the perfect pair of prescription/sun glasses and you can’t find anything really appealing? Please browse Northern Europe, Holland, Amsterdam home of great designers and brand Ace&Tate . If you live far no worries, of course you can  buy online. But before buying, you can try on 5 pairs of beautiful glasses and decide the one you look great in. It’s called the “Home Try-On” system: all you have to do is choose between frames sent straight to your door. Transportation fees, back and forth, is courtesy of Ace&Tate. This is a deluxe service that has enchanted us, but not only. The product itself, I mean their glasses, are really well done and fantastic in design. Plus they have a fair price. Ace&Tate is designer, producer and seller, no third-fourth parts are involved in the process. Jumping the license holder and the retailer permits them to sell great quality great design shades at a smart price. Ace&Tate is also involved in charity programs and its “Black Is The New Green” collection is made of a 100% bio-degradable acetate. 70% of its compounds are from natural sources. Harlow’s favorite model is “Charlie” in Bio Black off course.

http://www.aceandtate.com/

YOU WANT SPORTSWEAR, STELLAMC X ADIDAS

Posted on June 19, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

You are practical. You like to be beautiful. Yo do yoga. You go jogging. You like open air. You like “couturish” cuts on your sporty moment. You like the pastel palette that dives into neon. You like experimental fabrics. You like to wear it with a “party dress”. You like freedom and you like the fact that this collaboration is continuing and getting better. You never get upset if you boyfriend wears your fabulous pink windbreakers. You don’t go to the hairdresser, you can’t stand high heels. You, keep an eye on Stella McCartney  x Adidas collection. Sometimes we give it for granted but really it’s the best sportswear/yogawear you can possibly find. You, shop for last summer items (swimwear, like no other) and wait for fall winter 2014 collection to come (check out style.com). It’s incredible and you, you are as well.

http://www.stellamccartney.com/it/adidas_section

 

 

MöDERNAKED

Posted on June 4, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

It may sound Swedish, and look like, but Mödernaked is a Spanish Brand producing fabulous backpacks, hats, totes and jewellery. I liked them. Plenty of accessory brands out there, but these backpacks, photographed in Portugal by Filipa Alves, really stand out. When something comes out from the bunch, believe me, it’s a matter of panache and self confidence. This Spanish brand seems to posses both. Just have a detailed look on the “finissage” and get your favorited flowered fabric. Ideal to go to down to the beach in a romantic  aura and for the next back to school season. Amplified flower power.

Where are you from? Our creative team is formed by two Spanish girls and a Portuguese girl. We have our studio / atelier based in Matarranya – the Spanish mediterranean – considered to be the Spanish Tuscany. Although we live between Lisbon and Saragossa.

When did you found the Brand? We established our brand at the beginning of 2012.

What is your ideal client? We create our products for a Mö Girl, for a young girl that likes music, dance, traveling, and that appreciates well crafted products, that stands out from other commercial brands. Mödernaked is handcrafted lifestyle.

Where do you get those amazing fabrics? We source our fabrics from several providers; some are collected in our travels, others are designed and printed by us.

http://modernaked.com/

A BIRKENSTOCK SUMMER

Posted on May 20, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Big loves aren’t , sometimes, immediate. I remember, long time ago, watching people wearing Birkenstock with a lot of doubts: how can you really walk in those things? Is there a reason for wearing such horrible sandals? And then one year a pair of Havaianas fell down from a high speed boat and I was in need of a pair of sleepers. All my friends in Ibiza, boho as you can imagine, were telling me to give a try to Birkenstock and I did. My collection now is made of 8 pairs and there is nothing I would recommend but them. Nothing is better in summer, and winter too (plenty of warm models). The essence of this brilliant shoe, invented in Germany in 1774 is on the footbed sole that was inspired by the natural imprint of a foot in the sand. Anatomical shape ideally supports the natural walking action of foot while joints and back are protected. Leg muscles are exercised also and health and well-being benefit as a result. Ask any other “recreational” shoe to do the same and you won’t find one. Birkenstock collection has also been enriched with new models, colored soles and upgradings. Foot’s must have.

http://www.birkenstock.com/

WORK IT, O.A.M.C.

Posted on May 15, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

The Harlow welcomes back the return of workwear in fashion, a trend that was really strong in the 90ies and seems ready to be the next hot thing on your favorite store’s rows. The idea of comfort and protection has never been out of date really, but signals are starting to get clear and loud intensely towards this direction. To represent this new wave we had picked a new American brand called O.A.M.C. It’s a simple idea: to mix all-American work wear with the luxury of European craftsmanship. Luke Meier and Chris Gibbs are both born in Canada, met in mid-nineties in New York and became friends. Meyer went to study to FIT and become Supreme (yes, the skaters number one brand) head designer while Gibbs opened up a boutique in Los Angeles called Union. When Meier invented the concept behind O.A.M.C.A he needed a right hand: who’s better than his best friend? The duo is at his second collection, doing well and raising. As they declared ” When you really boil workwear down, it’s about utility. But even through it works, maybe it doesn’t have to look like it works”.

http://oamc.com/home.html

LONG LIFE TO JACQUEMUS

Posted on May 5, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

A positive reaction, a response. That’s what Parisian brand Jacquemus provoked. In general, that response is a smile, a happy and bright one because Jacquemus is stitched with good humor. Simon Porte Jacquemus is a guy the left his small city in the south of France and reached Paris with a dream: becoming a fashion designer. He is self-educated, he left fashion school after two months. Young and romantic, this candid guy has left a mark since his debut collection in 2013. His inspiration? It comes from his teenage naiveté, 90s style and “sometimes” grunge. Young Jacquemus wanted to create casual yet strong womenswear in memory of his mother and this the only note of melancholy. The rest is joy, simple things, freshness, reinvention. And when a designer declares something like this to describe one of its collection “I imagined the story of a lonely woman, tired of men, who’d dedicated her life to dogs” how could you possibly not fall in love with him? If fashion needs a new consciousness and some sincerity, not only a new perfectly targeted tweet, the example of Jacquemus is a good start.

http://jacquemus.com/

 

a.KNACKFUSS

Posted on April 29, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Nothing really new on the horizon, its just time for prints. It’s spring. Whenever, whatever:  young and young-adults are never been so colored, as parrots sometimes. Between all brands popping up like mushrooms in order to ride this rainbow “momentum”  I found out this label from Bruxelles that is quite interesting. Not that I suddenly started to like prints, after Mary Katrantzou everything had been said – and it was 3 years ago- but a.KNACKFUSS is not only that. It’s an experiment, an ensamble of pieces that cross the border and mix haute couturish looks with sporty ones. In a magistral way. This brand uses fabrics ranging from soft and agile to extreme and rigid while technique changes from draped to tailored, concentrating on the play of contradiction. Clothes as a nest that separate us from the environment remaining comfortable and elegant at the same time. Keep an eye on those guys.

www.aknackfuss.com

 

KLUTE, EPIC FASHION MOMENT

Posted on April 14, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

I have been seeing “Klute” (1971) for years and since the very first time I was enchanted by Costume Designer Ann Roth and her famous skills in developing a story. In this film Jane Fonda looks absolutely “in the part” and needless to say,  you can judge a book by its cover in here. Roth started to mold young call girl “Bree” from her haircut. She took Fonda down the streets of Lower East Side pushed her into a local no fuzz no glam hairdresser, and there,  she started the transformation. The character of Bree needed to be real and contemporary, a modern girl who was dynamic, sexually free and single. A Park Avenue girl that was living downtown. In few words, an Ante Litteram Carrie Bradshaw except for the call girl factor. Inside this film there are several fashion moments that really point out: fringes, suede -off course, chunky jewelry, brown tones. There are t-shirts worn with no bra under (so 70ies), a precious leather outlined trench that fits Fonda in the most perfect way and serve her as a blanket when, tormented by the stalker, she decide to spend the night downstairs into Klute’s room located in the basement. Plenty of inspiration can be taken  from this movie, ask Style Offices around the globe. It’s a capsule of the 70ies, both for fashion and interior decoration. But the iconographic dress, the piece that says it all, it’s a dark blue mermaid sequined dress by Norman Norell, a masterpiece. A “liquid” “covering it all” dress that shine with class and help Fonda in seducing Klute.  With a coupe de fermeture à glissière she is done: it’s the longest, perfect sliding, zip moment I’ve ever seen. Continue Reading →

AU JOUR LE JOUR

Posted on April 8, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Fantasy and esprit. Joie de vivre and irony. Spotted in Milan and around the globe, on the streets, at fashion shows and clubs: the unmistakable prints of happy-go-lucky t-shirts and dresses are by Au Jour Le Jour. Created in 2010, including both mens and womens lines, by Mirko Fontana e Diego Marquez,  AJLJ is an all-Italian original project which peculiar fabrics and colors are already into people’s heart. Coats, suits, knitwear, sneakers, Au Jour Le Jour is a complete wardrobe entirely designed and made in Italy. Check out their online store: the must have, for us, is the TRex t-shirt. To feel like Michelle Pfeiffer’s son on 1996 “One Fine Day” and get lost in Central Park. Like a kid can do.

http://www.aujourlejour.it

 

TAILORED, MAX MARA NEW EYEWEAR COLLECTION

Posted on March 31, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Established in Reggio Emilia in 1951 by Anchille Maramotti, Max Mara is more than a flag, it’s a world wide acclaimed symbol. An image of simplicity and perfection, quality and timeless style. I like to stand in front one of their windows and get lost in those shades of beige, pure lines and pureness. It calm me down and make me think they are unique, never boring, year after year. And getting better. The brand is actually doing one of the best designer’s eye wear collection seen lately with shapes and colors that really matches the Max Mara philosophy. This Spring 2014, MM introduces the Tailored Eye-wear Collection. A beautiful prescription and sunglasses assortment that reaches a new level of perfection. This capsule is made in the typical Max Mara palette and bows are lined with leather and stitched “a puntino” like its signature camel coats. Shapes?  Feminine, mysterious, contemporary. They recall Jackie O’ but also Dorothy Michaels of Tootsie. So if you are searching for a perfect pair of sunglasses to protect your eyes from the very first sun, I have no doubts. The Max Mara Tailored Collection is a must, a beyond fashion choice.

www.maxmara.com

MAXIMAL EFFECT, VALENTINA BRUGNATELLI

Posted on March 24, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

The difference a necklace can make is predicted and can revitalize any outifit, any moment. Sparkling objects, if well designed and made with first class materials, are crucial. Talking about first class jewel makers, Valentina Brugnatelli is one of those names to keep in mind if you are searching for some pieces with strong personality. Do you remember Gianfranco Ferre’ spectacular and avant-garde bijoux? Brugnatelli worked with the “Architect” in Milan for many years and collaborated with several other designers: Saint Laurent, Kenzo, Missoni among others. In 2012, the turning point: Brugnatelli starts her signature collection and shine on with amazing creations year after year. As she declared ” a jewel needs to have a soul: an element that doesn’t relegate it to something decorative. It is essential it tells a story and triggers an emotion. My jewels are worn by by a free-spirited woman with a personality strong enough to wear whatever she feels like.
Someone you would turn to look at because there’s something about her that strikes you”. Fall-Winter 2014-15 collection, which was presented few weeks ago, is all about essentials shapes: the triangle, the square, the circle. Homage to 8o’s fashion codes and to “Metropolis”, the collection is composed by stunning necklaces where 3D rigid resin is  made comfortable by a snake chain attached in the back and vortex rings of all sizes deliver a rotating impression that evokes an industrial mood. Bold your looks, discover Valentina’s splendid creations.

Ph. Necklace from 2014-15 collection.

http://www.valentinabrugnatelli.com/

 

THE WORLD ACCORDING TO KARL

Posted on March 17, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

How to survive this crazy world? It’s simple, by taking inspiration from a modernist guy who believes in globalization. A person, like none else, that lives the present and never looks back. Karl Lagerfeld has several books published under his name, a fantastic film by Loic Prigent and many other appearances but this charming little book is a must have for those who believes “Karlism” is a philosophy of life. “The World According To Karl” is a collection of his memorable quotes on fashion, women, art, politics, love and life’s highs and lows. The book is illustrated à la Alexey Brodovich, Harper’s Bazaar legendary art director, and was created with the full approval of the designer himself. Cultivated, unpredictable, provocative, sometimes tranchant, Lagerfeld’s “bons mots” are always impossible to ignore. Find out a designer that resisted so many years at the top of “fashion world” and understand it take a firm personality, humor and sincerity to stay true to your values. And if you don’t get a sort of wisdom by his experience, where else would you get it? Enjoy Karl’s world, manias and quotes in this exquisite book written by Jean-Christophe Napias and Patrick Mauriès.

“My autobiography? I don’t have to write it. I’m living it”. KL

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HOLY COMMUNION, KOLOR

Posted on March 11, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

kolor japanese brand

I said once, I will say twice. Black is out and white is in, again. And for those who remember the day they get their first holy communion, just focus on that date. You were hopefully happy on that late spring day wearing nothing but a white tunic, while your girlfriends were like little brides. The sun was shining and reflecting all that brightness, someone was shooting some late seventies Polaroids. Your mother’s favorite restaurant was strangely festive and some special tablecloths were garnishing  location: off course, they were white and some little innocent flowers  were embroidered on them. Your grandmother also was called to collaborate by making some special bombonnières that, again, were white with some little flowers embroidered. Pure happy day that marked my life. It’s 2014 and my spring obsession is still that late 70ies white plus some flowers. The perfect synopsis? This SS 2014 Kolor’s ensamble. Simply perfect to get a happy spring and discover some inner purity.

Kolor’s is a Japanese brand designed by Junichi Abe. It was launched in 2004. 

http://kolor.jp/

NO BLACK NO WITHE, JUST YELLOW PINK

Posted on March 3, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

You guys are tired of this black and white “Tiscesque” wave,  aren’t you? All this dark Feners around. Leave it to Kanye and Marina and get out of the stream by picking up some colors, in particular, pink and yellow. Sun is getting brighter and days are longer and  shadow is so 2012. Infuse your everyday life with sunset tones, from tops to facial creams, inundate your space with pure energy.

Burkman Bros : short sleeve pop-over shirt with geometric crocodile print. Lightweight poplin fabric with single chest pocket and natural fisheye buttons. Sleeve tab detail and inside neck tape finishing.

Carven: radiant yellow piquet polo with embroidered logo.

Nuxe: An incredible, Harlow testet, cream. Nuxe Men Gel Multi Functions Hydratant. Must have.

L’Erbolario Patchouly:  Golden potion. With pure extracts of Java patchouli, a touch of vanilla, white musk and Rosa damascena. This perfume is very inexpensive but the result is really Parisian haute parfumerie.

Carmex: the everyday lip rescue. The best lip balm on planet heart.

Raf Simons for Adidas: I don’t collect contemporary art, I do collect RS sneakers. Every season I’m tormented. Yes or no, yes or no. I always manage to get them. And they worth all my torments.

Stabilo Boss: the fluorescent highlighting pen. Marking the best pieces and phrases is like a photography, it stops time.

25 YEARS OF ATHLETES AND FASHION

Posted on February 24, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Born in Koln in 1959 and part of the infamous “Antwerp Six” group, Dirk Bikkembergs is the father of Sport Couture. Intersection between fashion and sport, this trend had been created on site by Bikkemberg himself who, for a certain period of time, was president of a small football club near Pesaro. Tested directly on athletes and made of futuristic materials, amazing colors shades, extreme functionality, his fashion experience remains something unique and never seen before. From exclusive jackets to high-performance underwear and sporty street shoes, Bikkembergs  has dedicated his entire designer’s life to a movement focused on masculine beauty, a branch that, commercially speaking, is often considered not interesting from fashion houses. To celebrate 25 years of uniqueness, good looking in shape men, sport games and sexiness, Rizzoli has published this precious book that contains designer’s historical pieces re-shooted in marvelous locations around the globe but also an historical profile and some vintage moments. Ideally made for male’s body perfection admirers and suitable for those who believe fashion, and sometime a beau, can play together on a soccer field.

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L’ED BAGS, EMOTION DESIGN

Posted on February 17, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Created to be functional and stylish, classic and innovative at the same time. Curated in every single detail and crafted to be “hot” and desirable. The world of accessories is richer and more practical now that there is L’ED. Created by Sara Giunti , born in Rome in 1988 and passionate about fashion and technology, this line purpose a set  of “real”  designer bags made with extra quality leather, with a plus. Inside, there is a treat. No,  it’s not a strange chinese device or a copy of a designer bag made of plastic. The outside of these bags is top quality, while the inside has a led light to help you finding your stuff along with an USB port to charge your laptop, Ipad, Iphone. Avant-garde and tradition, functionality and design, light and energy, different materials all in a perfect tuning: L’ED is a new way of living your everyday life. Discover SS2014 collection:

http://www.ledemotiondesign.it

 

TOP FOR TOP, EQUIPMENT

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Top pieces for a top season? You like them simple and well cut, you like them minimal but hell knows if you are bored with black especially whit a warmer and happier  season coming? You like them “morbido” but at the same time you are not a fan of the potatoes sack effect? Here is what TheHarlow selected for you: a signature Peacoat Composed Flock Print shirt and a Logan Tee in bright white Paradise Print.  This two brilliant purposes from Equipment seems more than  logical, and really appropriate. Equipment was originally founded in 1976 by Christian Restoin as a ready to wear label devoted to the innovative and straightforward side of fashion. Restoin, initally producing classic and timeless men shirts, closed down his label after 20 years. But don’t worry, good things, sometimes, comes back even better. In 2010 Serge Azria, well known also for successful lines as Joie and Current/Elliot, saw a void in the contemporary women’s marketplace for this luxury shirt brand. And The Harlow saw it too.

http://www.equipmentfr.com/

MOEVA, SWIM AS A NEWTON GIRL

Posted on February 3, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

Inspiration, Helmut Newton’s girls. The Berlin born photographer who, better than anyone, interpreted women in the 70ies and 80ies. The man who fixed them naked in glamorous scenarios often provoking controversy but liberating femininity as no one else before. Strong, shameless, beautiful women were often portrayed in extreme swimwear looks at the beach or in a swimming pool. To Newton’s eyes, swimwear was crucial: it was the object to glorify sensational bodies . Master German photographer illuminated then  MOEVA’s team and their Spring Summer 2014 collection.  MOEVA is an independent brand based in London  founded in 2012 that designs high quality swimwear for clients with a strong personality that want to look perfect in every detail. With “luxurious” cuts and fabrics, this swimwear line magnify, re create and glorify women as in a Newton’s picture. Your next beach enhancer is online and at best Usa-Europe retailers.

https://www.moeva.com/

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NATURALLY, TRANSIT UOMO

Posted on January 21, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

When it’s local, it’s better. When it’s a compatriot small company creating marvels 20 kilometers from where I live, it’s even better. Transit is not a new clothing line, it was acquired by Tam & Company owned by the Cozza family of Vicenza in 1994. Before that date they were producing for other brands investing all their resources in technology and experimentation and getting to be specialized in luxury production and high level clothes. In 2001 Transit Par-Such becomes Transit Uomo, designed and made in Carrè Vicenza, and still entirely made there. Dedicated to an elegant man that refuses shapes and forms of the classical “sartoria”, Transit is unconventional without being outrageous and has a gentle, almost “zen”, touch that recalls the far east. With its soft and accommodating cuts, its deconstructed jackets, its natural color palette and  top quality, Transit is already in our favorite designers list. Check them out.
Available for women as “Transit Par-Such” collection.

http://www.transit.it/

TO BE CONTINUED, JEWELRY RESCUED FROM THE CABINET OF CURIOSITIES

Posted on January 14, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

I met her one night, one of those post Christmas dinners where everybody is scared to death about eating. But then food is so  good that you can’t resist and at the end you are stiffed as a balloon. Belén was there. I can’t eat. I can’t eat she was telling everybody. But she was eating of course, and she loves food, and she buys Greek olive oil in London and last time she came back from UK she was carrying a 5 liters tank of it in her suitcase. Lol. Belén is simply the quintessential Spanish woman, in particular, a woman from Madrid. Independent, mother of two kids, nomad inside heart, smart and dressed as a cowgirl (she was coming from “el campo”). Belén is a jewels maker-designer and proud founder of “To Be Continued” a sensational jewel brand with a romantic allure. Belén travels around the world to find the best pieces and take them back to her Madrid Studio where her magic artisans work on them.

“I’m a designer almost by accident. My education and experience was centered in other professional areas (management, marketing and advertising) but I’ve always been drawn to the world of design and fashion. I began designing jewelry by recycling antique family pieces and my own jewelry that I didn’t wear anymore. Little by little I started adding to my work with pieces that I found at antique shops, flea markets or anywhere. What started out as a hobby slowly became something more serious. Friends and acquaintances began commissioning special gifts. That’s how TO BE continued…was born; unique, romantic jewelry for those who are looking for something special or rare. Every piece is made by hand. I’m not a fan of the ‘prototype’ world; too much of the magic is lost this way. I prefer to build a team with artisans and help them fight to save a craft that’s on the brink of extinction.”

http://www.tobecontinued.com.es/

LONGCHAMP, A “LE PLIAGE” NEW YEAR

Posted on January 4, 2014 by Marco Maggetto

I have been buzzing around a Longchamp counter for about 6 months to discover its Pliage wonder bags and I can say I obtained a postgraduate degree. The inspiration came from a friend of mine, a beautiful shabby chic Spanish gallerist, one of those marvelous no make up no hairdresser no nothing that is always a quintessence of style, no matter what-where or when. One day she was wearing this foldable bag. I remember it was en vogue during the 80’ies and that it was made by a French brand. I didn’t know that I would spend time on the subject nor even ask for it as a Christmas present. And now that I have one in my trolley, ready to be unfolded in case of extra shopping , which always happens, I can understand why this Le Pliage line, after so many years, remains a best seller loved item. Loved by grandmothers and by young women, and by men too, these bags are unexpansive, unpretentious but very well crafted at the same time. You can go anywhere with them, from gym to supermarket. They resist everything and are waterproof,  you can also use them to transport wood from storage to chimney. With a complete range of sizes and new colors,  we have no doubt this is going to be a “Le Pliage”  2014.

http://www.longchamp.com/

GLAW, SPRING SUMMER 2014

Posted on December 16, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Goodbye winter. It’s time to think about Spring 2014. As lighter clothes are slowly arriving in stores, we start this new season in a pink mood. In color psychology, pink is a sign of hope. It is a positive color inspiring warm and comforting feelings, a sense that everything will be okay. Is there a better way to start  new year with? Specialists of this tone and attitude are Berlin based designer duo GLAW. Devoted to urban elegance, Jesko Wilke and Maria Poweleit got to know each other at Esmond Fashion School and started their business after graduation in 2011. Glaw is bold,  very sexy and cut to amplify femininity. Glaw puts  a strong emphasis on wearability and diversity and it’s addressed to a wide range of female consumers from all ages. Made with luxury materials and high quality manufacturing standards, its gowns, cocktail dresses and tailleurs really stand out for an evident strong attitude . Imagine a contemporary, yet chic, bombshell with a romantic side. She wears Glaw, she wears pink.

www.glaw-berlin.com

 

PIJAMA, MADE IN MILAN

Posted on December 11, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

I imagine everybody is in a hurry for the very last Christmas gift. I’m not in this category thank god, I could never survive the anxiety of a last minute run into crowded shops. In case you are still crazy and on the run, here is Pijama. Such a good idea. Useful and colorful, very well designed, friendly in many ways, Pijama offers a wide range of cases (Ipad, MacBook, Iphone) and an irresistible variety of accessories. From sleeping masks, to slippers passing by a really fresh, and cool, line of duffle bags and backpacks. Smart is in the air at their Via Pastrengo 11 headquarters. Pijama is a 2006 project founded by Monica Battistella and Sergio Gobbi. Monica is a fashion designer, Sergio is an architect. The duo initially started creating neoprene cases to protect technological gadgets and continued later extending the collection with a careful choice of fabrics and new designs. Simple and straightforward, Pijama is an ambitious project that is already best seller all over the world and that you will find in best museum shops and boutiques like Madewell and International Center Of Photography in New York. To preserve plus colour up  your devices and everyday objects, to save them from time, to take them around. Pijama!

http://www.pijama.it/

COMME UN COLLECTIONNEUR

Posted on November 28, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Every time I stop by a Comme Des Garçons shop it’s a pleasure. Whenever it’s the perfume store in Paris, the Dover St Market in London,  a multilabel boutique or the fantastic Chelsea New York Flagship Store, it’s entering Rei Kawakubo’s world. Spectacular clothes and, more than everything, happy memories. All those years of my youth spent in desiring Japanase clothes, all those impossible prices (until late nineties  production was entirely made in Japan- imagine costs for transportation and custom that were applied). All those happy friends, artists, galleries owners and employees, dealers, socialites  faithful to the brand and perfectly comfortable in wearing black skirts and a over sized black coat. All the gossiping about “the genious”, her aura, her strong character that made of Kawakubo a mith. She was a legend 20 years ago, the best to buy, and astonishingly still is. Her clothes, except collaboration lines that are now more accessible, are forever. None trash a Comme Des Garçons coat or a jacket or skirt, because everything can be worn even after 30 years (Comme was founded in 1973 in Tokyo and launched globally in Paris early eighties). So I decided I wanted to be a collector. I said myself that it would be cool: whenever old and fat and horrible, I would always have some black exceptional pieces to wear and feel special in. But. Can I be more naive? My inspiration and mission crashed after only two days of researches,during which, I realized the following : the world of Comme’s collectors is immense and very wealthy. It’s populated by fast and more obsessed than me persons. They can pay a vintage mint condition item the double of  the price of a new one. If  they are not around my age, the romantic nostalgic part, Oh oh, they can be aggressive as hell bidding in the night on ebay or waiting the last 5 seconds to win. They are conscious and competitive. They buy everything, because they wear everything head to toes.  In few words, the Comme collector is like Kawakubo herself: a difficult, strong and determined person. And whenever you’ll decide you want to be one, mail in and we will give some surviving tips. You cannot make it without.

Photo: deatil of a multilayered dress from SS 1998.

 

SOPOPULAR

Posted on November 18, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Daniel Blechman  was born in Tel Aviv, Israel, in 1971. He moved to Berlin with his family when he was very young. Raised in a city that was still divided,  he decided to moved to UK in the 90ies to study at  Richmond University where got a bachelor in Interior Designing. Back in Berlin, Blecham turned his sensibility toward fashion and started to work as a Managing Director for a boutique where he was  introducing the first collections of emerging designers (Simons, McQueen). In 2000 he started to work as a stylist for international agencies and in 2008 he launched SOPOPULAR, his fashion line. Sopopular is  men’s fashion reduced, cleaned and revisited with classic cuts and narrow silhouettes all mixed up with edgy street wear elements and futuristic design details for a more modern and cool effect. Sopopular’s  production is made in Germany and purpose a different approach to the masculine wardrobe with recurring themes like spectacular prints and multidimensional fabrics. Continue Reading →

STRAIGHTFORWARD, RIKA

Posted on November 12, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

On Sunday night I was watching the EMA’s and I realized…I’m not a  teenager any longer. How sad. Not even a twenty something to tell you the truth. Everything seemed  foolish and over the top to me. A full fanfare. Outfits, lights, choreographs were over the top. So no wonder the pop music world is not my cup of tea any longer, it’s just a matter of hormones. The show was amazing in a way and I was laughing at every single pop star’s outfit,  Eminem excluded. To me, they were all wearing impressive and exaggerated Halloween leftovers costumes. If the EMA is done for young people, and fashion is a big part of it, do they really want to see that? Being young is about being complicated, complicating simple things and being attracted by complicated stuffs. Being mature is about dreaming to be young again and live easily, straightforward. I like when it’s cool, and young and uncomplicated like the brand Rika. Take the “Marlon Sweater” in this picture. It’s rock, it’s girlish, it’s simple, it’s no Halloween. It’s just an ironic sweater worn with a white shirt and a black skirt. Is there anything more perfect than that? In times where brands are forcing decorations to capture clients, Rika delivers  a clothing line that likes to whisper instead of shouting. Founded in 2005 by ex Svedish stylist Ulrika Lundgren, Rika is working with success on clothing modern pieces and amazing handcrafted chemical free leather accessories for a modern woman that is bold and high-spirited.

http://www.rikaint.com/home/

THE FASHION WORLD OF JEAN PAUL GAULTIER: FROM THE SIDEWALK TO THE CATWALK

Posted on November 5, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

He is one of my favorites ever. His pieces are still in my wardrobe surviving years and years of Feng shui. You have to make space to the new sometimes, but when the time of toss or give comes, you never even doubt about pieces by Gaultier:  too painful, they recall good memories. That’s him, the French fashion master of game and transformation. A poet, one of the very first designers that based his career on the diversity of global cultures. A designer that made his outing before starting his career, in years where even the most clearly gay of them was silent about it.  Galutier’s full of  freedom and bonne humeur designs are crucial, extremely important to describe a part of our history and that’s why The Brooklyn Museum is hosting  The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk.  It’s  the first international exhibition dedicated to the French Couturier and it features 140 haute couture and prêt-à-porter ensembles. From his earliest to his most recent collections, the exhibition explores how Gaultier’s avant-garde designs challenged societal, gender, and aesthetic codes in unexpected ways. Exhibition is curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot of the MMFA.

Brooklyn Museum from October 25, 2013 till February 23, 2014.

Photo: Tanel Bedrossiantz, 1992 by Paolo Roversi

IT’S MODERN. THE EYE AND VISUAL INFLUENCE OF ALEXANDER LIBERMAN.

Posted on October 28, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

The art world doesn’t mix up with fashion, and this is basic rule. No matter if fashion takes its main inspiration from art, no matter if artists are doing prints, design, advertising for brands. Everything should be discreet and collaborations should be silent. If an artist does want to ruin his career, all he/she needs to do is to be credited on a limited edition bag line. That’s the way it is. I want to find the intersection space between art and fashion, how many times did we hear that? Well that space exists, it is evident but keep it quite because that intersection is ephemeral and volatile. Alexander Liberman, was a Russian-American magazine editor, publisher, painter, photographer, and sculptor. He is one of the very few examples of a balanced “intersection”. Liberman managed to be the world’s most powerful editorial art director but also a respected photographer, artist, and graphic designer. Despite all that glamour Liberman managed to remain a very well educated. down to heart, “white emigrè”, first in Paris and suddenly in New York, who’s life and work are now an inspiration for many. Rizzoli pays hommage to the genius of “Alex”, as he was called at Conde’ Nast, publishing a richly illustrated  book curated by former Vogue design director Charles Churchward.  “My friend, it’s Modern!” he would say whenever someone challenged his judgment. And modern is the key definition of Alexander Liberman’s work: after so many years, his track at  Vogue remains unsurpassed and incredibly contemporary.

ORDINARY AND EXTRAORDINARY, ALESSIA XOCCATO FALL 2013

Posted on October 2, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

She is a Harlow’s favourite since years. Is she an emerging?  Is she an established designer? Alessia Xoccato is none of the two. She is established in the sense that she has a very strong continuity, collection after collection, and she is emergent in terms of simplicity because she is allergic to over structures as she tries to keep it smart and conceptual. Despite years in fashion, she maintains her strong values and we are more than happy of this. In a period where emergent are desperate to create more  for their instagram followers than for their clients, enlarging their logos to 10 cm and make it as Kenzo as possible,  it’s good to see that Alessia is making it well without making a fuss. Lately, she has been presenting her collections at the International Fashion Week “Moroshka Fashion Week” that took place at the Peter and Paul Fortress from August 22 to August 25. And it was a success.  And successful, in term of press,  was also this fall collection 2013 that takes inspiration from Brancusi’s sculptures and the atmosphere of David Lynch’s  films. Xoccato designed a wardrobe for a woman that lives in the ordinary but also in the extraordinary, that is confident but open to new adventures. Alcantara, boucle’ wool, fake fur, multilayer lace and silk are the materials while the silhouette is always clean and totally modern. Made in Italy with love and for people that lives, and wear, fashion in real life.

http://www.alessiaxoccato.com/

Continue Reading →

TURNING EVERYTHING INTO GOLD (SLOWLY), INA BEISSNER

Posted on September 23, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Gold is the new black and thank God periods in jewellery are much more relaxed: so there will be plenty of time for you to enjoy this come back after years and years of platinum and silver, the also called “cold company”. Do we need hot and warmer reflections? Absolutely. Jewellery, small, big, fake or precious, should be gold or gold pleated now. Don’t worry about the change, it will last some years. Jewellery designers,  don’t know the rush of lengths or the hysterical changes in the fit, the don’t do jeans basically. That’s why we like jewellery so much, this sort of a separated world where marvelous designers like Ina Beissner suddenly appear. Ina is really young, she was born in 1980 in Lima. Her very first collection debuted in 2010 immediately gaining the attention of press and jewels lovers. Her style is a mix between her Latin American roots and her German part, where she lives and produces.  Ina prefers to explore the intriguing terrain of elegance and distinction but she is also conscious of  the relevance of body art as the insignia of rock ‘n’ roll. Shine on baby, in autumn too.

http://www.inabeissner.com/

 

NE/NO BY STEFANO MANETTI

Posted on September 16, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

There is a whole world of new designers specialized in making accessories but we think that Ne/No by Stefano Manetti really deserves a special mention. Stefano is a flamboyant Florentine guy who studied design and fashion and only wants to design luxury items with no borders at an accessible price. As a passionate minimal guy, he doesn’t like the frou frou, the fanfare, the over decoration. Stefano likes to play with geometry and pure lines and prefers quality to appearance. His bags are made to last, to be worn with every outfit at every hour of the day. As a very first collection, this “universal” ensemble of maxi backpacks, totes and ultra slim “envelopes” is  like a bomb ready to explode. Dedicated to legends of rock and roll, maxi bag in photo above is called Kurt, the collection is entirely made in Tuscany and  has all the allure and quality of an established brand with all the freshness that only a young and talented designer can bring. Loved at first sight here at The Harlow, what about you?  

Discover Ne/No at www.manettineno.it

AUTUMN CASHMERE

Posted on September 10, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

I was browsing this Saks Fifth Avenue Cashmere section and found it. The ideal warm thing, the juicy product, the finally “not traditional” good quality jumper. I’m talking about Autumn Cashmere, created in 1993 in the US and proudly retailed by Thycoon American Retailer. Since its creation Autumn encountered the favors of the fashion crowd and was destined to freshen up winter wardrobes, A listeters ones included: from Cameron, till Reese, everyone is in love with this brand that produces great designs at very affordable prices. Suggested and recommended.

autumncashmere.com

 

CHALLENGE, 22/4 BY STEPHANIE HAHN

Posted on August 26, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

Born in 1977 Düsseldorf, Stephanie Hahn is maybe one of the most futuristic and  inspiring contemporary designers. If Futurism was meant to abolish prospective to see things in a different way, then 22/4 designed by Hahn is, in a way, close to the artistic movement. In her case it’s gender liberalization, in a extremely luxurious and discreet way, that is changing the prospective. 22/4 creations are hand-tailored and meticulously crafted, created for people who is in love with the classic man tailoring but needs a new re interpretation and a cooler touch. The fall winter menswear collection 2013-2014 is influenced by the style and attitude of the piano player personalities Chilly Gonzales and Glenn Gould. Both Canadian born, these geniuses managed to be unique musicians, to evolve their own standards and to own a neat  sense of style that have been influencing this collection where modern smart formal wear meets luxurious outerwear and home wear elements. To my opinion one of the most interesting, and neatly tailored, collections in stores now and an example of a successful girl’s story (Hahn) trying to re invent the classic menswear. A non easy challenge that she seems to manage in an excellent way.

All photos by Stefan Milev

http://www.224hommesfemmes.com/intro/#/ Continue Reading →

BABY OR NOT

Posted on August 20, 2013 by Marco Maggetto

They say that “Royal Baby” will probably raise England’s gross national product in few months. It’s like oh my God world has  just realized England is a cool place and everybody wants to go there on holiday and shop unionjaked stuffs and of course, fashion. Baby or not, it doesn’t take that much to understand that “The Brit Touch” had always been “en vogue” since my parents were teenagers and from the remotest province of Italy they were receiving diktats from London: that  city was, and still is – despite the boring millionaires from all over the world buying a house, or an entire street there – pure energy and inspiration. What comes from London-England may not be easy in the beginning, it may be uneven  but it’s ahead, new. New  like marvelous dresses from Preen. If it’s true that  at one point leopard prints always come back, then Preen has produced the best a/w 2013 animaliers. And if you think that designing a leopard print is nothing new or tacky, you may change idea with Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s designs. Be open and turn your head into “receive” mode because London is still calling…and whatsupping.